Tag Archives: armenia

Janapar Trail in Karabakh ready for more hikers!

Posted by on October 8, 2012 1 comment

Janapar Trail - Zontik Waterall

I spent some quality time in the Republic of Mountainous Karabakh this year, hiking on the Janapar Trail and along with the help of others, we whipped the trail markers back into shape.  The trail is now not only very well marked, there’s a whole trail guide online (which I highly recommend taking along), high resolution topographic maps, and even an iPhone/Android app that can be used to follow the trails without even looking up from your phone screen!  Hikers from Israel, Russia, Austria and Belgium have already hiked the newly worked on trail, and no doubt others who I haven’t heard about.

It’s a beautiful time of year to hike in Karabakh, but I realize most people reading this won’t be able to make it over there before the winter.  You do, however, have loads of time to plan a great hike next year!  The trail takes you from the southernmost city of Hadrut, all the way up to Stepanakert.  The sights and nature along the way are really beautiful, and the hospitable people are even more so.  Your hike will be unforgettable, unless you accept too much of the mulberry vodka hospitality, and your memory is impaired by drinking too much.

The hike takes a week, and each night you’ll end up in a different village where you can stay the night at a villagers home if you don’t want to bring your own camping gear.  It’s not terribly difficult terrain, you’re hiking in the foothills, and most of the time the trail is wide and clear.

So plan on spending a little time hitting the trail on your next visit to Armenia!!  And meanwhile, please help spread the word about the Janapar Trail…  posting the link to the facebook page, emailing it to friends and talking about it will all help spread the word.  Here are the important links – please visit the facebook page and like it!

Armenia-EU free trade pact

Posted by on February 20, 2012 No comments

This has been in the works a while, and will be a really big deal.  An economic union and free trade pact between Armenia and the European Union.  That’s 500 million customers for Armenian products. It will also make imports cheaper.

The European Union on Monday decided to launch negotiations on a deep and comprehensive free trade area with Armenia in order to boost economic growth and investment with the Eastern European Partner.

That does not include political union – at least not yet. But I think after free trade comes, and the easier travel regime that has been proposed as well, full on union/membership may follow naturally enough, if both sides want it.

What I Had Missed

Posted by on December 7, 2011 No comments

During my recent Paris trip, I had the pleasure of taking in 3 films. For some reason, they were all about social issues haunting humanity.

The first film was a Hollywood production of Contagion. An epidemic, the most dangerous ever, has killed millions world wide. The source of the illness was China – funny, a few decades ago, it would have been Russia ;) A remedy was developed…. Of course, by an American scientist – this time it was a woman ☺ It was fine, not the best film I have seen.

The second, Polisse, is a MUST SEE! A highly controversial French film that was directed by a young woman who was herself a victim of a sex crime as a young child. She presents a team of police officers who deal with children. With an amazing cast, the film covers all kinds of issues. It is hard, raw and true. Pedophilia, insect, sexual favours at school through peer pressure, pornography, immigrants, poverty, suicide, physiological stress, inter-police frictions, love, anger, reconstructed families, religion, gender issues, sexuality, … it was powerful; cult film.

The third film was by non other, Robert Guedikian. The narration of Les Neiges de Kilimanjaro was splendid. It takes place in Marseille near the beautiful Mediterranean sea. However, the distress of economic crisis, human kindness, crime and punishment and family values were showcased in this beautiful, beautiful film. I can honestly say this is one of Guedikian’s best film.

I had missed going to the movies and being blown away by the big screen and its moving images. Armenia needs to consider screening good films, not just mass distributions of cheap romantic-comedies and such. I am counting on the new generation of Armenian filmmakers to save us from this whirlpool. Not sure if I should hold my breath though.

There is more to Armenia than Yerevan

Posted by on November 12, 2011 1 comment

For the past year, I had been literally stuck to my work and for that reason, I had spent most of my time in Yerevan until May of this year when my agency, Deem Communications, was tasked to organize a Eurovision party in Vanadzor, Armenia’s 3rd largest city. Since that date, I have been traveling in and around Armenia very regularly, either for business or pleasure, and have rediscovered my love for this beautiful piece of land.

Vanadzor
In May 2011, I spent several days in this beautiful mountainous city. Once a vibrant industrial city, now a somewhat deserted and depressing place, Vanadzor reminds me a lot of what Yerevan used to be about 7 years ago. It is slowly coming out of the soviet era… key word is SLOWLY. Yes, there are businesses like the telecoms and banks and restaurant/café chains, but it is not at all doing well economically. In June, I had the pleasure of revisiting with another business trip (opening of Byblos Bank Armenia’s new branch). The most necessary thing right now is HOPE. The youth and young families need to have their hopes restored so that the city becomes, like its older years, a pleasant place to live and to visit. The lush green hills, the wide and clean streets offer a perfect setting for it!

Shushi, Karabagh (NKR)
When my parents were visiting, we all went down to Shushi. The drive was quite long as they had forgotten their passports thinking that Karabagh and Armenia did not need a checkpoint, let alone a separate visa – but that is a separate blog of its own. The scenery during the drive was breathtaking. July is a really nice time to make this trip. On the way, we stopped by Mirhav Hotel in Goris. This hotel is done very tastefully; bravo to the owner, a barsgahay from Germany. Once in Shushi, we took in the crisp fresh air. Did a bit of hiking in the medieval fortress Armenian city. We heard stories from before the war, during the struggle, after the victory and now. Not all these stories were enjoyable as one can imagine. Nonetheless, they mark me every time; the man, the wife, his children, her family, his land, her future, his life… The nature in Karabagh is just perfect. I met some kids whom I had worked with during my Land and Culture Organization (LCO) years back in 1999 and 2001… they had grown so much. It was also nice to see that 2 new hotels had opened, the roads are being built and new stores are popping up here and there. There is even a “marchrutka” that comes by our neighborhood. Two years ago, I had the chance to work on reviving the museum in Shushi. I highly recommend a visit there when visiting Karabagh (though they have messed it all up again… eh, what to do). The director of the museum, Ashot, is also a character!

Ashtarak
My oldest daughter was hounding us to take her to this ranch where she wanted to spend several nights. To my surprise, this place called Ayrudzi was one my favorite new discoveries along with the Ashtarak city Pascal and Diodato café! I think we have been back at least 15 times since July. They have great middle eastern dishes and a really wonderfully decorated space … and WIFI! The more I visited Ashtarak, the more I fell in love with its quaintness, lovely weather and many beautiful churches. During one trip last month, we dropped by Saghmosavank, an all time favorite of mine, which reminds me again of my earlier days in Armenia with the LCO.

Sevan
Another business trip to Sevan for our new client Bohemian Resort. Needless to say, any trip to Sevan is just great. It is soothing and refreshing. It takes you away from all your thoughts and hustle-bustle of the city. I went back and for on different occasions over the summer… great great great! So great in fact, that in July, we organized Yeprad’s baptism at Bohemian Resort. It was really a nice place to stay (although the rain prevented us from maximizing the 2 day stay). Prior to that, the entire Deem Team was invited for a staff retreat, which was exceptional!

Tsapatagh
After all the family visits and other duties Lara and I had to do, we decided we would need to get away from it all and be with the kids and only them for at least 4-5 days. Avan Tsapatagh from the Tufenkian Resorts is just the perfect place. The rooms are so nice and clean. The bed and couch are sooooo comfortable. The food is just good. The hikes up the mountain and to the lake are so relaxing… best experience in Armenian vacation destination. We used to spend much time there in 2004-2007… then, other neat places started popping up and we somehow forgot about this beautiful hotel. We really made the best of it and remembered all its unique attributes.

Dilijan
Another Best Western has opened in Dilijan. My agency was commissioned to do some creative and promotional work. The drive to Dilijan (not far from Sevan) is a special one with sceneries changing from rural to rocky mountainous to lakeside to green/lush mountainous… a photographers dream! We also visited Dilijan with my parents. Haghardzin… akh, what a beautiful ancient monastery it WAS. Yes, was! It has been commissioned to be renovated (not restored). It now looks like some new euro-stan trashy construction with white manufactured tiling… I do wish they decide it was a mistake and bring it back to what it used to be… a GEM! On this trip, we visited the new Tufenkian district (Old Dilijan). Deem had worked on some signage and the restoration of the museum. I am glad that the museum still is intact and has attracted many tourists since. Finally, we had coffee and desert at the Artbridge Café there. The kids loved this trip – we shall repeat!

This being said, after every trip outside of Yerevan, I always feel glad to be back – back HOME. Home to MY CITY, Yerevan!

Burger drives Diaspora mini-economy

Posted by on October 29, 2011 1 comment

Last week a new burger/sandwich/pub opened in Yerevan named ‘The Factory’.  It is owned by Diasporan partners, from I believe two different countries and is right next door to Yerevan’s first youth hostel (Envoy – also opened by Diasporans) which will undoubtedly supply it with some customers.  Going in, it’s a clean newly remodeled place which used to be dead space on that block.  It offers literally a breath of fresh air as you first enter into the non-smoking room, and the whole place seems to have one of the better ventilation systems in an otherwise smoky restaurant scene.

If I had to guess I’d say about half of the clients have been Diasporans when I’ve gone in (yes, three times already, perhaps too many burgers for one week?).  The meat is supplied by The Meat Shop, which is soon to open a butcher shop and is owned by… yes, Diasporan partners from again a couple of different countries.  Their space is in a retail space in a newly built building that has also never had a business in it before.  A dead space.  These spaces are coming to life, and a new mini-economy is being created. Read more »

French Everywhere

Posted by on October 28, 2011 No comments

Over the past few months there seems to have been a French invasion of our city (feel, let’s not overdue it, the real invasion is done by the Iranians). Everywhere I turned there was a group of people (different age groups), speaking in Parisian French (could be Marseille or Lyon even). At first it seemed quite cool, then it just became so … overwhelming. You really thought you were in a European country (not that there is anything wrong with that).

Even my company, Deem Communications got into the action by organizing an open air concert with Elodie Frege on the eve of the arrival of the French President, Sarkozi.

The past few days have also been very … umm… oui oui! I spent a good part of my day with French investors looking to build several big projects here. Now, will it happen? not sure, but the fact that they were here during the 10th anniversary of the French-Armenian Trade School near Sasuntsi Davit statue and during the International Assembly of a French Speaking City Mayors (yes, including Tremblay from Montreal), was just … oh la laaa…

If this is sounding like a complaint – IT IS NOT! I wish there were more. More Germans. More Italians. More Japanese. More British. More Brazilians. More Argentinians… and yes More CANADIANS! This will only make this land a more interesting place (yes, more than it is now)!


What about schools?

Posted by on October 20, 2011 5 comments

Yesterday I went to the parents meeting for Amassia. Their school is just so great. The teacher explained what they have been up to since the beginning of the year. The Waldorf school works on epochs (era). This time, the epoch was the Natural Habitat. Amassia has been obsessing on mushrooms and wild plants. she has been asking me to youtube some of the most bizarre animals. She has been collecting small pebbles and rocks for show and tell… I love how involved they get in their material. One of the students had told the teacher that he never thought about grass or wild flowers and would usually stomp, crush them. Now, he said, I have respect for them… that was so funny and perfect.

Their Armenian teacher had surprised us with publication of all the children’s creative writing, short stories. It was a book. A real book. Amassia’s picture had made the cover!

So, if anyone asks me “are you happy with your child’s schooling in Armenia” my answer so far and has been since we have moved here “VERY MUCH!”

YES, we are back. Won't you join us?

Posted by on October 17, 2011 No comments

One of the reasons I decided to move to Armenia was all the fantastic stories told on this blog. I read Alex Sardar, Raffi Kojian, Madlene Minassian and all the others with great interest. Now, I hope that we will be able to inspire another set of repast to join us in Armenia and create amazing stories of their own.

Of course, this is not the only way to attract more people towards Armenia. I understand that people need work, schooling (for kids), medical/health, (everything else will come … ).

I suggest that nurses/doctors, school teachers, dentists, political scientists, journalists and lawyers read and get inspired to eventually, maybe, why not… move here!

Looking forward to see more repats on the streets of Yerevan, Gumri, Vanadzor, Ashtarak or other cities, and why not, villages of Armenia!

Today’s story is simple. Over the weekend, one of our close friends held their daughter’s baptism in one of our favorite church, Sourp Zoravor (Asdvadzadzin). This church has become ours over the years. We have become used to attending Easter mass, weddings, baptisms and more ceremonies there. I no longer seek the Montreal churches so familiar to me. That is a great feeling to know that you know associate your life starry with local landmarks.