Category Archives: Repat Blog

Great birthday party for Yerevan

Sunday was Yerevan’s birthday…  her 2,794th birthday to be exact.  Yes, Yerevan was founded thousands of years ago, even before Rome!  Though Yerevan’s fortress of Erebuni didn’t grow quite as fast as Rome, the city has a very long history.

It was one of my favorite days ever in Yerevan.  Why?  They closed all the streets in central Yerevan.  It was awesome!  People were having a blast on every single street, walking in the middle of the road, bicycling, rollerblading, standing around.  The whole center was packed, and events were going on all over.  At one point I saw a large crowd coming down Aram Street and assumed that one of these events had just ended, but as I got closer to the source, I saw they were all coming out of Republic Square subway station.  The metro was the only way to get into the center of the city, and it was great to see so many people using it.  I really wish they’d expand the subway system and close down some of the streets, so that more people could use it regularly, and we could get some of the cars off of the roads.

At night there was a lot of fireworks, and the festivities drew to a close.  I guess the party in 6 years (2,800th birthday) will be huge.  Put it on your calendars!

Janapar Trail in Karabakh ready for more hikers!

Janapar Trail - Zontik Waterall

I spent some quality time in the Republic of Mountainous Karabakh this year, hiking on the Janapar Trail and along with the help of others, we whipped the trail markers back into shape.  The trail is now not only very well marked, there’s a whole trail guide online (which I highly recommend taking along), high resolution topographic maps, and even an iPhone/Android app that can be used to follow the trails without even looking up from your phone screen!  Hikers from Israel, Russia, Austria and Belgium have already hiked the newly worked on trail, and no doubt others who I haven’t heard about.

It’s a beautiful time of year to hike in Karabakh, but I realize most people reading this won’t be able to make it over there before the winter.  You do, however, have loads of time to plan a great hike next year!  The trail takes you from the southernmost city of Hadrut, all the way up to Stepanakert.  The sights and nature along the way are really beautiful, and the hospitable people are even more so.  Your hike will be unforgettable, unless you accept too much of the mulberry vodka hospitality, and your memory is impaired by drinking too much.

The hike takes a week, and each night you’ll end up in a different village where you can stay the night at a villagers home if you don’t want to bring your own camping gear.  It’s not terribly difficult terrain, you’re hiking in the foothills, and most of the time the trail is wide and clear.

So plan on spending a little time hitting the trail on your next visit to Armenia!!  And meanwhile, please help spread the word about the Janapar Trail…  posting the link to the facebook page, emailing it to friends and talking about it will all help spread the word.  Here are the important links – please visit the facebook page and like it!

Have a drink Armenia, you’re 21 today!

Yes, it seems like forever, but Armenia is just 21 years old today (well, the current independent Armenia anyway).  If Armenia was a Californian, she’d only today be allowed to take her first drink.  It’s been a crazy ride, and certainly there have been growing pains, but there’s no question she’s come a long, long way.

After 70 years of pseudo-communism, the Russian Empire (USSR) collapsed again, and Armenia found itself independent again.  Sure we’d voted for independence, but we only really got it when everything fell apart.  While the USSR was collapsing, Armenia was dealing with the aftermath of the catastrophic Spitak/Gyumri earthquake of winter ’88/89 still, Armenian refugees from Azerbaijan, a conflict with Azerbaijan that was turning to full-scale war, a blockade by both Azerbaijan and Turkey combined with tenuous links to an unstable Georgia and even more tenuous links to Iran at the time.  That, plus the complete collapse of the Soviet economy, which arguably hit landlocked, blockaded Armenia harder than anyone else.

Some of these problems were handled much better than others.  The Karabakh war ended with freedom for Karabakhtsi Armenians, albeit with no international recognition.  The borders with a now stable Georgia and Iran allow a relatively normal flow of goods.  We have electricity again, and natural gas, and petrol.  Everything has been privatized and people are doing business.  Thousands and thousands of earthquake victims were given new homes.  Ties with the Diaspora have been reborn – though again with some hiccups.  Armenia went from firing a Minister of Foreign Affairs for mentioning the Armenian Genocide, to actively lobbying for its recognition worldwide.

One big failure was the poor reception most Armenians from Azerbaijan received.  Hundreds of thousands should have been welcomed and incorporated into the new republic, but most were driven out as much by discrimination about these refugees who spoke little Armenian overall as by the completely collapsed economy.  Additional hundreds of thousands have left due to the same poor economy.  In the early days that economic failure was no fault of Armenia, and today the economy has grown many times over from that base.  But it should have grown much much more, and would have if it hadn’t been for the stifling effects of corruption.

The early 90s were a time when the people made great sacrifices – truly great and heroic sacrifices – for their new country.  They lived with a couple of hours of electricity or water a day.  They lived somehow without money.  They climbed 15 story buildings to their dark freezing apartments, and carried their water up with them.  They made these incredible sacrifices gladly, for themselves and for Karabakh, where they sent many of their boys to fight for its freedom, many never coming back.  When they saw that their leaders were not sharing in their deprivation, and were in fact helping themselves at the people’s expense, disillusionment set in, and the tide of emigration became a tidal wave.  People who should have been building this new nation, people who should have fighting all that was wrong with society, they left and left.  The young especially, and the young men even more so.  Combined with a large drop in the birthrate, Armenia now faces a demographic problem that it yet has to solve.

So much more has happened, and many books will be written about it all.  The nuclear power plant being restarted, the presidential re-election that Levon Ter Petrossian stole, as well as banning the Tashnags and dual citizenship, the good relations Armenia shares with three very conflicted world powers (Russia, the USA and Iran), the construction boom that transformed the heart of Yerevan, and then ended with the world economic collapse, the presidency of two consecutive presidents of Armenia from Karabakh, the lifting of the ban on the Tashnags and dual citizenship, massive growth in tourism and IT, and so much more…

Armenia is now deep in talks to create a free trade zone and eased visa regime with the EU.  That’s huge.  It’s also talking about free trade with Russia, Georgia, and even Iran.  It has created a stable, independent and democratic Karabakh.  Big changes are happening.  Turkey is becoming more and more tolerant of the word genocide, and recognition and open borders will come.  That will be another game changer.  If they have any decency, they will offer reparations of all kinds, to make up for our loss of life, culture, land, livelihoods…

I can’t imagine where Armenia will be in another 21 years, but I have hye hopes ;-)   (forgive the pun)

Azerbaijan rewards murderer of Armenian

In case you’ve somehow missed the story, here’s a quick summary.  In 2004 an Azeri military officer and an Armenian military officer (among many others) were attending a NATO Partnership for Peace language training course in Hungary.  The Azeri officer, named Ramil Safarov, says he felt that the Armenian officer had in some way insulted Azerbaijan.  Whether that was simply by being Armenian or by saying something is not clear.  What is clear is that that night, Safarov went and hacked the Armenian officer to death while he slept, almost severing his head.  He was sentenced to life in prison by Hungary.

About a week ago it was announced that Azerbaijan may be buying three billion Euros worth of Hungarian bonds.  Yes, 3,000,000,000 Euros worth.  Armenia heard rumors that Azerbaijan was trying to get Safarov returned to them, and called Hungary on it, which denied it up to the last minute.  Then Hungary sent him back to Azerbaijan anyway.  Azerbaijan had apparently promised that Safarov would have to spend at least 25 years in jail before being eligible for parole, based on Azeri law.

A jet was charted from Azerbaijan to pick up their new national hero.  He be brought back, given a free apartment, 8 years of military back pay, and a promotion.  He had a meeting with the Minister of Defense, and the President put a photo of this “national hero” on his Facebook page.

What are we to make of all of this?  We know that Azerbaijanis hate Armenians for merely existing.  They’ve made this abundantly clear.  They try to wipe our existence off of the face off the earth every way they can.  They’ve destroyed centuries old Armenian masterpiece khachkars in Hin Jugha, Armenian monasteries, declared that all Armenians everywhere in the world are enemies of Azerbaijan, and have forbidden any ethnic Armenian from any country to visit Azerbaijan, unless and Azeri organization can literally guarantee their safety.  This is their stated policy, and they have told me this in person at their embassy.  They are saying in no uncertain terms that their people are bloodthirsty, murderous animals, who will slit Armenian throats at every opportunity they get – much like they did in Sumgait and Baku most recently in the late 1980s as they hunted Armenians to death from door to door as the police stood by or helped.

The Armenian President suspended relations with Hungary immediately and demanded the international community condemn this act.

His first action was correct, his second, meaningless.  We don’t need their condemnations, we don’t need their opinions.  Azerbaijan is a spoiled brat, that wants every one of us dead.  They also continue to threaten war to retake Karabakh.  Enough is enough.  It is so abundantly clear that the Armenians of Karabakh can never live under any sort of Azeri rule or supposed autonomy, and that the word and guarantee of the Azeri government is worth less than a pile of cow manure.

Armenia must recognize Karabakh’s independence immediately.  No more negotiations, there is nothing to discuss any more.  Azerbaijan is not a country that can be trusted.  Not when it promises to keep a murderer in jail, not when it promises Karabakh autonomy, not when it has one Armenian within its reach.

It is game over.  If the international community wants any outcome other than Karabakh independence, let them come and attack Karabakh themselves.  They’re worthless, their words are even more worthless, and we need to learn that nobody will take care of us but ourselves.

Armenia must recognize Karabakh today, and tell these hypocritical countries that are expressing dismay at this action to put their money where their mouth is and recognize Karabakh’s independence, just like they did Kosovo.

Summertime, Karabakh, Janapar Trail

It’s the middle of summer in Yerevan.  The weather has been great lately, not too hot, but nice and warm.  I’ve been on the road a lot, and really enjoying the countryside.  You forget just how beautiful the landscapes can be, and the wildflowers in the early summer are something else.  This year saw more rain than usual, so I think the wildflowers were better than ever.

I spent a few weeks in Karabakh in June, hiking on the Janapar Hiking Trail.  Again, I can’t tell you how many wildflowers, butterflies, crazy bugs and amazing landscapes I saw.  It had been a while since I’d spent time in villages as well, and it was really nice.  The slower pace of life, with people living off the land and producing almost everything they need.  I got to eat at people’s homes where virtually everything on the table was grown and produced there.  From the fruits and vegetables (obviously) to the wine and the honey.  You can see a lot of photos of the Janapar trail on the Facebook page.

So why haven’t I been blogging more often?  Well I didn’t intend to be a lone blogger on this page.  Over a half a dozen others agreed to blog – but this year only one post was made by someone other than me.  I enjoy blogging more when there are other voices on the page.  So I’m putting the call out again…  anyone want to join?  There’s less pressure to write all the time, and this site already has a pretty good audience.  Anyone who’s interested in writing should let me know, regardless of your background or where you live.  Let’s talk

Smoke free coffee and sandwiches

Long overdue in Yerevan is a spot for a coffee and a sandwich, salad or bagel… without cigarette smoke!!  It’s July, it’s hot out, and although I love the outdoor cafes, this cool new air conditioned cafe is a long overdue option in the Yerevan food scene.  Normally I go to outdoor cafes in the summer to avoid the smoke, but even sitting outdoors the smoke is ever present.

Say hello to Green Bean.  They go to great lengths to secure the cleanest ingredients they can – organic when possible.  The salads are great, plus they have sandwiches, bagels and some baked goods which I haven’t tried yet.  Coffee (including to go), beer, and some other drinks round out the simple menu.

Literally a breath of fresh air.

http://thegreenbean.am

Give Syrian-Armenians space

There is a large Armenian community still in Syria, though it has been reduced quite a bit mostly by emigration to the west.  Now that the situation in the country has deteriorated rapidly, many have been applying for Armenian citizenship as a backup plan, and many others have thinking about or actually moving to Armenia.  There is already a community of Syrian Armenians in Armenia who have been doing business in and living in Armenia for many years, which helps to some degree in encouraging others to come.

Most of the immigrants will no doubt want to live in Yerevan, but as an alternative, they should be given another option.  Many of them are part of a tight-knit community and it may help to give them the opportunity to recreate their community here as something of a Nor Haleb.

Perhaps a town close to Yerevan like Armavir or Ashtarak could be the focus of official resettlement?  Or something further like Ijevan or Shushi?  Open a school there where Western Armenian is the language of instruction, but Eastern Armenian is also taught.  Convert a building into a community center for them.  Make them feel welcome and have a real and familiar community rebuilt so that they don’t move on from Armenia as soon as they possibly can, but instead put down roots and establish themselves in their homeland…

Midnight at the Museum, Rose Day and Gay Haters

Tumanyan Museum on Yerevan Museum Night

Saturday night was the annual museum night in Yerevan.  So many museums to go to – all free!  From 6pm until midnight you could go to your favorite museums, and they were all having events coinciding with museum night.  The result?  The streets were packed all over downtown with people and families walking.  The museums of course were even more packed than the streets.  It was really really great, as everyone was having a great time.  The only downside was that it may have been too successful.  It could be hard to see much in the museums, since the crowds were so large.  It’d be great if they would make this a monthly event, but perhaps that would hurt revenue too much?  If that’s the case, how about making it at least twice a year.  Something like this early in the winter would be really nice.

Yesterday (May 20) was Rose Day – an annual celebration of Sayat Nova’s birth – though I have conflicting dates for his birth.  In any case, this celebration was started by Hovhannes Tumanian while he was still in Tiflis and it carries on to this day.  This year celebrated Sayat Nova’s 300th birthday.  The mayor of Yerevan participated in a march down Sayat Nova Ave, to the Sayat Nova statue.  There was music, girls in traditional costumes.  It was cool.

Today there was a march of tolerance in Yerevan.  There have been two late night attacks on a bar in Yerevan known for being accepting of people of all sexual orientations, and this march was to show support for tolerance.  It seems strange to me that a small Aryan group here would target the gay community.  It’s even stranger that the Tashnagtsutyun seems to be backing the attackers publicly.   Two Tashnag politicians have bailed out and publicly supported the attackers, and I heard there was a Tashnak anti-tolerance group following the marchers.  Disgraceful.  I hope the US Tashnagtsutyun stands up strongly against this kind of attitude and violence.  Sexuality is not a choice, and therefore no amount of discrimination and violence has ever managed to “stamp out” homosexuality.  It never will.  Trying to force people into the closet only creates miserable people and broken families and marriages.

The fact that there is an Aryan group in Armenia confuses me.  Armenians and other people from the Caucasus are beaten to death in Russia by white supremacists there for being “black”.  So does this Aryan group in Yerevan agree that Armenians are inferior to Russians?  I’m really curious about this.

Beehives making jobs…

Ներկայացնում եմ Կորյուն Ալոյանին Վաղազին գյուղից.

Koryun Aloyan in his home with the honeycomb for his new hives

In Armenia, there are so many people who need assistance.  Some of the reasons are due to the governance.  Some are due to cultural reasons.  Some are luck.  There are many reasons, and they all need to be addressed – but it’s not easy of course.

Giving someone money though virtually never fixes the problem.  You can buy someone a house and a car, you can pay for an eye surgery or heart surgery or badly needed medicine, but almost without fail, the next day, the next week, the next month, the need is back.  It’s not fixed.  Only a job, an income can fix it.  Well creating a job is much more difficult than giving someone cash, so it’s a rare thing for this to happen.  One organization I’ve learned about is creating jobs and livelihoods in Kashatagh/Berdzor/Lachin for years.  The group is called MENK, and I heard of them through a settler in those regions who is a great scholar and I believe honest.

It seems like MENK has been running a very successful project now for about a decade, with their relatively limited funds.  They started out giving farm animals to settlers, who then had to pass on the babies to other families.  For the last few years though, they’ve been having really great success with introducing settlers to beekeeping.  These regions have vast fields of wildflowers, and mostly organic fields at that.  The honey produced is a high value product, and high demand.  It sells itself.  They only work with settlers who have a neighbor who will mentor them in beekeeping, to make sure the project has a good chance of success, and they loan the settler the beehives and bees for five years, during which time they earn enough money to pay back the loan.

The hives are not cheap at $100 each with bees, the sheets that go in them, etc, and each family needs more than a couple in order to make it worth their time and produce a good return.  But so far they’ve never had anyone default on these beekeeping loans.  Unfortunately the MENK website and materials are only in Armenian so far, but the program is quite simple.  You or anyone can give MENK a loan (which can be wire transferred to MENK, or picked up in Armenia or Karabakh), and then they in turn loan it to the settlers they have on a waiting list.  You can visit the families yourself if you are so inclined.  Each year the family will give you a jar of honey, and after 5 years they will return the full loan to MENK who will give it back to you.  Or you can agree to an extension if necessary.  I think recipients take the whole process much more seriously as a loan that needs to be repaid, than as a handout.  So really, this seems like a pretty great program…  and this is the time of year bee colonies are dividing, so if it sounds good to you get in touch with them.

Here are some families that MENK has helped with hives – you can see how badly they needed it, even if you can’t read Armenian…

Explosive rally

It’s two nights before the big parliamentary elections.  Tonight was the big Hanrapetutyan rally in Yerevan’s Republic Square.  They’re the ruling party here, and they were having the singer Tata come to sing, and the President and top officials were coming out for this.  A bunch of kids brought a big wall of balloons to the rally for the festivities.  These balloons must have been filled with hydrogen rather than helium.  I’ve never heard of such a thing, but I never stopped to ask what they fill their balloons with in Armenia.

Well, right as the rally was beginning, something not at all surprising happened in a place filled with hydrogen balloons and thousands upon thousands of smokers.  Something really horrible.  The flame managed to ignite one balloon, and they were all in such close proximity that hundreds if not thousands of them went up in flames at once.  A huge fireball engulfed the people under and around them, and scores of people were rushed to the hospital to treat burns of various degrees.

The rally was not cancelled.  The president came out shortly after all of this occurred, never once mentioning the disaster that had just taken place, and all of his supporters who had literally gone up in flames.  Do politicians in the west care more?  Or do they just have better PR skills?  Either way, it was not cool.

Harout comes (back) to Yerevan!

It’s where he got his start – but Harout Pamboukjian hasn’t been seen much around Yerevan.  Last night he had a free open air concert at Opera square, courtesy of (or to) Raffi Hovanissian‘s Heritage Party.

It was a big letdown that he didn’t sing Hey Jan Ghapama, but Ha Nina Nina was a good consolation…  in the photo he’s singing with Rouben Hakhverdian.  I hear that Rouben (being Rouben) was asked by a reporter earlier about his reasons for singing at a Heritage Party event, and that he replied it’s because they’re paying him $3,000.  And then he added, the songs aren’t even new…  they’re old songs.

The concert was part of a rally preceding Parliamentary elections this coming weekend.  It’s really great that in Armenia, you are only allowed to campaign for the 1 month period preceding the election.

All kinds of interesting stories related to the upcoming election…  from employee passports being taken so that their votes can be used, to the president himself showing up yesterday at Mashtots Park to declare that the stores being built in the park that have been halted by protesters for three months should be dismantled.  That means that they will of course be dismantled.  And the park is being renovated as well, so it should look quite nice soon.  This has been a huge victory for activists here, where the government usually bulldozes past any concerns, and where protests and activism usually are tiny numbers of people that fizzle out almost as quickly as they appear.

April 24, 2012

Tsitsernakaberd – Armenian Genocide Memorial