moutain climbing in armenia
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From "Climbing" magazine, p. 184 (Thanks to Areg Danagoulian)

THE GUIDING LIGHT
Visitors could keep a country's climbing alive.
[photo: Armenia's granite-walled Mount Khustup as seen from the north]
By Andrey V. Chesnokov.  Translated by Ruzanna Aghazadian.

     There is a Russian proverb: "A clever guy will never climb the mountain, a clever guy will just pass around the hill."

    The climbers of the former Soviet Union responded: "Just give us mountains and we will be happy to be called 'crazies.'"

     We in Armenia certainly had our "crazies."  There were climbing clubs in the cities of Yerevan, Abovian, Leninakan, Kirovakan, Dilijan, Sevan, Kamo, Yeghegnadzor, Kaphan, Ashtarak, and more.  All of the members of those clubs had one feeling in common:  love of the mountains.

     We had two types of climbing clubs:  city clubs, which belonged to the Republic Sport Committee, and clubs belonging to institutions and businesses, organized by the volunteer Sport Society of Professional Unions.  The clubs conducted athletic exercises during business days, field trips during weekends, and occasional extended trips to the mountains.  They provided equipment, food, and transportation.  The only things required from a climber were a report and photographs.

     The USSR developed a number of climbers' camps, located in the mountains of the Caucasus, Pamir, Tian-Shian, Altai, and elsewhere.  At these camps, the climbers trained, took climbing tests, and received degrees in sport.

    But now all that has changed for Armenian climbers.  The collapse of the former Soviet Union and the declaration of the independent Republic of Armenia brought a series of difficulties that has largely stopped us from climbing. First of all, the subsidies provided to the sports world by the USSR suddenly ceased.  Second, all travel declined due to the fighting and suffering that accompanied the unstable political situation.  Third, many people lost their jobs and incomes.

    While studying engineering at the Polytechnic Institute, I met the best climbers in Armenia, learned technical climbing, and participated in industrial climbing: assembly and repair of bridges and towers.  During the Soviet era, our university club had plenty of equipment, all also used for industrial purposes.  When Armenia seceded in 1991, it had none of its own mountain-gear manufacturers, and was beset by political and economic depression.

    Climbers also were going through hard times.  There was no money for field trips.  Once, in wintertime when we were sitting in the unheated climbing club, I opened the door to the equipment room.  I could not believe what I saw.  We had nothing.  Nothing more was coming from Moscow.  That was when I realized climbing in my life and my country was over.

    Currently, most Armenian climbers are concerned about getting daily bread. But when one becomes close to the mountains, it is forever.  And we are concerned for the future of our sport:  they youth rarely climb.

    Although there is no large cliff area in Yerevan, the city has many rocks that are good for training.  The climbers mainly towrope, but that only satisfies new climbers.  More experienced climbers lack the chance to improve their leading and rope work skills.

    That is because of lack of equipment.  Carabineers are very expensive. Ropes are scarce, and would fail practically any test.  Everything is very old, torn, and worn.

    My tent for example, was made in 1970.  I inherited it from my parents. Other climbers have the same problems.  We have seen climbing shoes only in magazine pictures.  We have no information on new techniques and equipment.

    It hurts me to realize that our sport or, more correctly, our style of life in our mountains, may vanish.  I have begun to think that the development of guiding in Armenia is the only way to create a climbing future.

    If you visit another country, hiring a guide could be mutually beneficial. You get someone who knows the region and can show you the best places to go. You might not even wish for a guide per se, but might like someone to show or join you on non-technical mountains, or perhaps point out the best unclimbed mountain routes or rock features.  For us, development of guiding would provide opportunities for learning:  apprentice guides could accompany groups.  A guide service could also provide rescue and safety services.  Finally, part of the guides' earnings might be allocated for the clubs, to keep climbing alive in Armenia.

    Armenia is a small country (11 640 sq. miles), but during trips, climbers, trekkers, and skiers can stay far away from people for weeks.  At the same time, no spot is more than  day trip from the closest settlement.  The mountains in Northern Armenia are mainly volcanic in origin; the central mountains are predominantly limestone, with areas of dolomite (which, during the time of the USSR, hosted rock-climbing competitions); and the south, in the zone of tectonic faults, contains an abundance of granite.  Between the central part of Armenia and the south, sharp granite peaks flank deep gorges.

    The highest point in Armenia is Mt. Aragats, at 4090 meters, and dozens of summits are higher than 3500 meters.  A point of special interest is the Zangezour mountain ridge with its numerous spurs.  The highest point of the ridge, Mt. Kaputjukh (3905 m), is he third-highest summit in Armenia.  Also in the Zangezour region is the enticing granite wall of Mt. Khustup (3201 m), which floats in day-time mirage.  On it, one may meet the complete list of rocky pleasures;  hanging slabs, fine chimneys, eaves, overhangs, and steep walls.

    The mountains are a good chance for becoming friends and we would be glad to host visiting climbers.  As guides, of which there would be no dearth, we would try to showcase our motherland.  Our mountains are also our home --  it's a small country.  We have a saying here:  "A person comes to our home as a guest only the first time, the next time he is our family member."

Andrey Chesnokov has climbed most of the mountains in Armenia.  He started climbing at the climbing club of Yerevan State Polytechnic Institute while studying engineering.  Today all engineering work is scarce in an economy functioning at about 25% of its former operations.  To inquire about guiding in Armenia, contact: 
Andrey Chesnokov
10 Vardanants St., Apt. #49
Yerevan, Armenia 375010
phone: (3742)576757
email: ruzan@aua.am