April 23, 2008 in Yerevan

Every year, the ARF youth in Armenia organize a rally and march from Freedom Square (Opera) to Dzidzernakabert, about a 2-3 hour walk. Last year was my first year and for me, it was a new experience that sent chills down my spine. Some could argue about the relevance of it in Armenia, where tens of thousands of kids from all over the world gather in Yerevan, and go virtually unseen by the mainstream media. But I think it's just as important to show that this unified message is also coming from the capital of the Armenia world. This march begins the commemorations in Armenia, and lay the foundation of flowers around the flame that are so iconically seen around the world.

As we marched through the streets, more than 10,000 people chanted "Jananchoom!" (recognition), all the buildings along the path were covered in candlelight as the residents approached their balconies to join in with solidarity. Aside from the fear of hair bursting up into flames with all the torches dispersed around, there was a feeling of unity that hasn't existed since the election riots. Perhaps it was something we needed to feel complete again.

This year, I marched with a group from Dubai and Lebanon, what originally would have been in the hundreds, but dwindled down to 20 or so after the effects of election riot fears kicked in. Here are some photos.

A New Armenia

Most repats can tell you that the vibe in the air has definitely changed in the last few months, but what it means is unknown. This might not be a favored or popular blog with the audiences, but I'm a firm believer that to change something, you need to look at it truthfully. Just as there is an uncertainty of the future of Armenia in the diaspora, there is a confusion in the repat community about the direction of the country they so belovedly returned to so many years ago. The tension in the air, the anger, and lack of respect for one another seems magnified by all the signs that once meant progress. Protests have only brought out more doubt in the people, and clearer divides. Economic progress has led to more pollution and traffic in Yerevan's center with no visible intent to regulate the chaos (starting with noisy clubs in residential areas and ending with the worst gridlock you could ever imagine). But worst among all, prices of everything have skyrocketed, especially food, making it no longer more practical to live here than anywhere else.

I sat with some fellow repats yesterday on a beautiful Sunday afternoon, sitting outdoors on Abovyan drinking tea, something I once considered paradise. We contemplated what it was that changed our experience for the worse and I realized what changed for me. I've been coming to Armenia since 1994, and have lived here for the last 2 years. In the best moments, I remember feeling such an overwhelming feeling of hope and potential that was once limitless. It seems now that the limits are surfacing and they exist dominantly within our own mentality... collectively. The cynicism is outrageous and growing rapidly, affecting everything around us. Even within myself, I feel a hopelessness challenging my primary objective in moving to Armenia, or even my desire to pursue those objectives.

What's the answer? Well, it's not to buck up and leave, that's for sure. The US, while cheaper on some levels, is certainly not the ideal location at this time with it's suffering economy... I wont go down the list. There is no other destination more attractive, which is a sad state of the world to realize at a time like this. So I stay. What on earth do I do to change what's around me, though? My answer... be nice. Smile. Remove hatred from my day. Stop looking at people as though I'm ready to strangle their children (I admit everything), learn to make them laugh instead. Overwhelm people with generosity (element of surprise is powerful). I was in a shoe store yesterday and all the women who worked there were either looking at themselves in the mirror fixing their hair, or frowning on my presence. My friends and I tried to act silly just to crack a smile... unsuccessful (can't win 'em all). But usually just being a freaky spaz to get a laugh is enough to lighten the mood. I suggest we all do the same, because we don't have another Armenia right now. This is it... and we need it to meet our own standards in every way.

a new beginning

Today was the official swearing in of Mr. Serge Sarksian as the new President of the Republic of Armenia. It really felt like an important event because ALL the streets were blocked… lots of police escorts...

Congrats to all Armenians (in Armenia and the Diaspora) for the beginning of a smooth era!

what does human rights have to do with the olympics?

I recently read this text written by a very good friend of mine, Karine Macri:

Made in China: Genocide ad Nauseum
As China continues its policy of violence against peaceful Tibetan demonstrators, I recoil at the fact that the World Olympics are only a few months away from their official launch, taking place this year, in Beijing, China. With recent major newspaper headlines, calling the Spiritual Leader of Tibet, the Dalai Lama, “helpless” in stopping the Chinese from attacking the protesters, as a US citizen, I wonder about the perversely selective foreign policy of the United States concerning the subject of genocide. As usual, conflicting reports about the numbers of casualties have appeared, citing a difference of 86 deaths, depending on who’s reporting. On March 20th 2008, the Chinese finally admitted to shooting protesters and their numbers show that 13 people have been killed. The Tibetan figures show that 99 people have been killed (including those in Lhasa), most of whom are monks, demanding the return of their land from the Chinese. These figures exclude the scores of arrests.

At first blush, the current situation in Tibet does not qualify as genocide, because technically a few protesters have been killed in voicing their opinions. There is no apparent systematic approach to annihilating the Tibetans as a whole. But that’s why human beings have the gift of reason. Reason allows us to look at things in context and when we do, we see a long-standing history of genocide being committed by the Chinese against the Tibetans. Why China was even selected as a contender for hosting the Olympics is beyond any honest reason. Imagine Turkey winning a human rights award (not for violations but for progress in the name of...). This is tantamount to China representing the best our world has to offer. I am saddened to think that in this day and age, when everything and everyone seems to be for sale, China might actually be the best our world has to offer.

China continues its white (and red) genocide against Tibet. The Tibetan government in exile is forced to conduct its business from Dharamsala, India. I wonder if they too, like the Armenians look over the guarded border and exclaim, “my what beautiful mountains we have!” The BBC reported that Condoleeza Rice has urged China to show restraint and enter into a dialogue with the Dalai Lama. I don’t know if she was laughing while saying it or if she was busy patting Chinese President, Hu Jintao, on the back. I should like to see the foreign policy of the United States reverberate the message of our own Declaration of Independence, “that all men are created equal,” and by that all men should be afforded the same right of protection when being savaged by a ruthless neighbour intent on their annihilation, not just select Bosnian Muslims because they are the cause du jour.

Our job at the Armenian Genocide Museum & Institute (AGMI) in Yerevan, Armenia is not to cast blame nor demand retribution; there are other organisations that cover those areas. Our job is to show the course of events. To document what happened in such a clear way, that the mere sight of this atrocity shocks the observer into intelligent action, ensuring this barbarism is never repeated. We are, at best the “groundskeepers” for our ancestors and act as a time capsule for those to come. There is no heroism in being the first genocide of the twentieth century. Much like there is no pomp behind being the first nation-state to accept Christianity as a national religion. Many say it, few practice the teachings diligently. That is why we acknowledge not only our own genocide but also the others that came before and those that have sadly, come after. We are the repository of facts.

These events in Tibet are as relevant today as our own genocide was while it was happening. Darfur, Sudan, still ongoing. What precept of goodwill and peace will the Chinese be functioning under during the Olympics? Perhaps they will change their ways. I hope they do. In the meantime, two more Tibetans were killed.