Sunday, December 30, 2007

Eureka! (or The Rules of Driving in Armenia)

by Yeretsgin Paula Devejian

After living here for 7 years, I have finally figured out some of the driving rules!!!!!

For all of you who drive in, are thinking of driving or have driven in Armenia, this is for you!

While Your Car is Moving:

1) The little white lines in the middle of streets are only a suggestion. There are several rules which refer to the white line, but it's for guidance more than restriction.
2) The far right lane is actually the occasional parking lane. This is why all right turns are made from the middle lane. Additionally, as long as no greater than 3/4 of your car is inside the center lane, you are allowed to stop in the parking lane.
3) The far left lane is actually the street sweeper lane. They occasionally park there for long periods of time. This lane is also used for right turns, but only when you have forgotten or are too lazy to get over to the center lane, yet still need to turn right.
4) The center lane is the driving lane, and the right turn lane, and on occasion the left turn lane.
5) On 4 lane divided roads, the white line is used to center your car. You should only pull into the right lane when someone behind you honks or flashes their lights. However, when your car is centered, you should drift no farther than the inner edge of either of your front tires. Drifting left to right within these boundaries is encouraged.
6) Regardless of the number of lanes, all lanes are considered "talking lanes". Anytime you see a friend, either in another car or on foot, you can stop in the lane you are in, and talk to them.
7) When driving farther than 10 kilometers, you are required to pass, lag behind, pass, lag behind, pass and then finally lag behind any Niva on the road.
8) You can back up a street as long as you don't go farther than 3 kilometers.
9) You can drive in the wrong direction on any road, as long as you drive on the shoulder or the parking lane, and the distance is not farther than 5 kilometers.
10) Outside of Yerevan proper, none of these rules apply. Streets, sidewalks, shoulders, parking lots and the occasional stair have all been morphed into one, and termed a driving surface. Rule N2GT (Need to go there) is in effect for all driving protocols.

While Your Car is Stopped at a Red Light (hahahahahahahahahahahahaha)

1) Once the light turns green, and if you are the first car, you are allowed to hesitate for up to 30 seconds before proceeding.
2) If you are not the first car, you are required to honk your horn 5 seconds before the light turns green.
3) However, both rules 1 and 2 are declared void if you start talking to a friend who is outside of your car, if you start your conversation while the light is still red.
4) When approaching a red light, driving around the waiting traffic to place your car at the front is allowed, but only if you are important or in a hurry.
5) Turning right at a red light is never allowed under any circumstances. However, going straight is.

If you closely follow these rules, and abide by all other traffic laws, you will be guaranteed a much more enjoyable driving experience in Armenia.

Saturday, December 29, 2007

Full Report on the American-Armenian Diaspora

Probably for the first time in history, a survey was conducted of American Armenians this year. The goal was to find out, primarily for the development of the tourism industry in Armenia, the thoughts, perceptions, etc of the Diaspora Armenians in the US, in order to understand their needs better and market Armenia appropriately, reach them more easily, and develop new products to meet their needs. I worked at CAPS while this was being developed and have uploaded the full report and data onto Armeniapedia, where you can read the answers to every single question. Believe me, if you're bored, this is fascinating stuff to look through.

Here I'll present some of the more interesting (to me) tidbits.

California has 57% of the Armenians in the USA.

86% are at least somewhat interested in visiting Armenia.

60% have graduated college, almost half of whom have completed a graduate degree.

43% were born in the US, 27.5% in Armenia, 10.4% in Lebanon, 8.6% in Iran and 1.5% in Turkey. Syria and France got only 1% each.

Almost 40% of those born abroad arrived in the US in the 80s, 30% in the 90s, 13.4% in the 70s.

73% speak Armenian. 53% speak Western, 43% speak Eastern, but what the other 5% speak is an interesting question!

That's the stuff I found interesting about the respondents themselves - next time I'll post on some of their actual responses...

Saturday, December 22, 2007

The dreaded Aeroflot

Over the years I heard many horror stories about taking the flight to the US via Moscow/Aeroflot. In general, things seem to have improved a fair bit over the past few years, but I have always chosen to avoid it. This year, with the new and unimproved prices in Euro, I took the plunge and bought my ticket via Moscow...

Now, it was not exactly a horror story, but I will say that avoiding this option is an excellent idea, and worth spending more on. It is a looong flight from Moscow to LA, and I could not sleep for one minute, so I had plenty of time to lament the lack of a decent entertainment system. They had a few small TV screens hanging down along the middle of the plane, with - you guessed it, bad Hollywood movies, dubbed in Russian, with English subtitles. The food was, in a word, terrible, and I don't usually complain about airline food - it is what it is. They served us two meals on the flight, exactly the same, and their love of cold fish again showed through. In that looong period between meals, they were not interested in seeing passengers, talking to them, and most certainly not in helping them. You could pick up a cup of water and that was all. The airport - Sherenksdjkfshdiougf-2 or something like that, had few places to sit, nobody selling cards to access the wifi (which was free at Zvartnots in Yerevan!), and the bad food they sold was excruciatingly expensive, as was the telephone calls, which I think they overcharged me something 5x the price. Oh yes, and most of these Russians either didn't speak English, or didn't want to speak English.

On the up side homeland security was in a good mood and I whizzed through LAX with both bags in a decent time.

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Thursday, December 20, 2007

Publishing Machine

Mark up one more book to the list... but this one is a little more functional than literary. The ANC of Burbank approached me a while back to feature me in their annual Weekly organizer... planner... agenda... calendar... whatever you call it. Everyone says something different. So they are ready! You can see a preview and purchase a copy on their website and the proceeds go to the ANC of Burbank to keep fighting for genocide recognition at this incredibly crucial time.

Other news... it's FREEZING cold as I approach my first Christmas spent away from my family and in Armenia. I have all my dinner plans set and all my days filled with great friends, so I hope that void is filled as much as possible. Anyone who knows me knows that I LOVE my family and hate the idea of not being with them when there's a get together.

Presidential campaign politics are heating up of course, but I feel completely removed as so many people debate daily. I think this time around I am so saddened by the choices and see no strong candidates that are even clearly stating how they plan to make Armenia a better and stronger country, I just cringe at the thought of even morally supporting one or the other. Some people seem to think a revolution will take place either way. All I can say is that if Ter Petrosyan is maintaining his position on the genocide matter and his attitude towards the Diaspora, I really fear for Armenia's future. The last think we can afford is to divide all Armenians one more time. Say what you will about the Diaspora, it's still an asset we can't afford to lose. It seems the public believes he has a chance, but I can't imagine how that is possible. I realize in their minds the alternative (Serge) is much more threatening to them, but I think there is a little short term memory going on here.

Anyway, I was hoping to be here to cover the elections, but I'll be traveling for a month in February, so I might miss out on all the action. So much for that. Looks like I'll be passing through Italy, Greece, DC, NY, Boston, LA, and maybe Montreal... trying to hit as many countries and cities in one shot. hahaha. Seriously though, lots of photo-taking and research to do. Focus Arsineh!

Monday, December 17, 2007

Where Do I Start?

Well, it's been an interesting few months. (Ok ok, I know it's been longer....) Since I last blogged (which I don't even remember) so much has happened! I officially got engaged on September 22, at which time my parents were in town. It was great to have them around, even though their visit was quite short. October seemed to fly by, and in November I finally got a job!

Today is my official first day of work, and I'm looking forward to having a set schedule again. I'm excited and nervous at the same time, but mostly I'm thrilled about working at www.orran.am !!!

My DOLLARTHON project is still happening this year... and I was able to collect some dollars while I was in LA for 3 weeks around Thanksgiving.

That's my short update for now... more to come about how it is to be the only Diasporan at work!

:)

Thursday, December 13, 2007

My Nation

Let the process begin. I mentioned before that I'm embarking on my first personal publication. Well, the PR has gotten ahead of me as opportunities fell in my lap, rushing the process along. Can't complain, sometimes inspiration needs a little fire under the bum.

So, I got my website going: www.mynation.am. And here's the synopsis:

My Nation: The Trails and Trials of an Armenian Repatriate
By Arsineh Khachikian

A lifetime spent searching for my own identity has led me to the discovery of history in the making. Every rock I turn exposes the story of a people undefined in modern age. This book will explore the depths of a people who challenge assimilation, defy expectations of defeat, and triumph in the face of their own doubt. Having grown up in the Armenian American community and repatriating to Armenia, I have had the opportunity to visually capture the advancement of Armenian influence in the US, as well as the simultaneous development of the a new democracy in the homeland, pulling out of economic collapse and exceeding all expectations of development. It's the personal story of my life and my nation through the lens of my camera.


What's the next step? Getting the word out. I was recently interviewed for System of a Down's most popular fan website SOADFans.com about my experience photographing the band, the political campaigns, and oddly enough... moving to Armenia. My understanding is that a few people found this interesting. Anyway, I've started compiling 20 years of photos on my external harddrive and it's already hurting... lots of Gigabites of memory. But wow is it fun going through 20 years of my life in photos. Can't wait to share!

Monday, December 10, 2007

Armenian Community in Bosnia?

Is there such a thing? I'm trying to find out because I will be going there in January for several months to do an internship with the OSCE press and media office. Yep, that's right... I'm going to Bosnia.

I'm feeling a mixture of apprehension and total excitement. I had applied for an internship with OSCE a while back, when I needed to find one in order to complete my last semester of my masters. Now, I am already committed to another internship here in Yerevan which will end shortly at the same time I finish my degree, but I still can't pass up this opportunity to work with OSCE in Sarajevo.

I'm apparently turning into quite the jet-setter... I'll be going home to California for the holidays, then coming back to Armenia in the middle of January for the AIPRG conference at which I will be presenting a paper, and then off to Bosnia right after the conference. How exciting! I'm hoping to be back in Yerevan by the summer but who knows what could happen... right now I'm enjoying the idea that the future is wide open and my "career" path could go anywhere from here. I look forward to the day when I don't need to put quotes around the word career, haha.

So for all you Armenians reading this, please let me know if you have any Armenian contacts in Bosnia or even the rest of the Balkans. I'd love to try and meet them when I am in the area. And any other suggestions on traveling to this part of the world will be welcome too...

For Christmas, I hope all your own travel wishes come true :)

Friday, December 07, 2007

A full and rather interesting day...

And not much time to sum it up, because the night is about to begin in 15 minutes... so excuse my stream of consciousness mess!

Went into a few shops, didn't find much (the CHIPO store, which imports stuff from Germany, was certainly not cheap!).

Went to one notary - did you know you need a note from the deeds department (cadastre) saying a property is NOT under debt in order to lease out a property? So strange, since in the US, virtually all property has a mortgage.

Took a cab I found at the notary (driver turns out to work for an acquaintance) to Paregamutyun area to do some shopping. Traffic was a DISASTER due to construction. Got 2 bathroom mirrors (with little glass shelves). One was the display model - last one in stock. They asked if I cared if they packed it up, I said no. As I carried it out the glass shelf slipped off (was not attached so well) and broke. They took out a replacement without a word from me - but since I had broken mirror a at home, I had a spare glass shelf by luck, and told them I don't need theirs. They said to come back anytime if I change my mind.

Bought some stuff from Hayastan "Department Store", no problem, then in the supermarket section the honey I picked up rang up wrong at the register (3x what the shelf price tag said), she was like, don't buy the honey then. I just walked off without any of the items.

The cab driver tried to convince me that I owed more than the meter showed, because he had to wait for me so long. I told him the meter counts that - and he didn't say another word.

Went to a shop to grab some food, than another for a dessert, then to the next notary appointment. The line was a zoo, and I thought we had a reservation - the guy orchestrating our visit was not good at lines (which is an art form in Armenia), and it took us an hour. Did you know, to rent out a property, you need to sign a document that you are not married, or else you must bring along your spouse? And that any rental should be notarized? (a widely flouted rule so far as I can tell in Armenia)

Then on my way home, I stopped to get my bag strap sewn. She did it on the spot, and wouldn't take $ for it.

Then, on to the office, where a cab trip yesterday (where the cab slid off the road and into a stream) was a big topic of discussion, and why the driver was called directly instead of the office calling the company for the driver. Since the driver gets only a company check from us, we couldn't figure out the drivers angle when he took the fare and told his company he's taking the day off.

Then, shopping some more. Bought a set of things for the bathroom - and the soap dish was missing. I didn't notice or care, but the girl came to the register with me to make sure I got a discount. Cool.

Then off to a glassware store, and they did not have the glasses I wanted in stock - so on to another store. Found about the same thing - though I didn't like it quite as much, and was on my way home, once again rather weighed down.

Almost home and my phone rings - it's my 7 o'clock asking if we could change the venue. This I said is no problem, since I can't remember where we were meeting anyway!

And now, I'm late. Hope I didn't forget too much...

Thursday, December 06, 2007

Dentist

So I just want to rave about the best teeth cleaning I've had since my childhood dentist retired years ago. Dr. Gagik Pahlavyan gave me an amazing cleaning for 40 minutes, and my teeth feel brand new! I highly recommend him, at least for cleanings. It cost about $50 - though who knows what he'll cost next month if the dollar keeps dropping. If you want to pay him a visit, he's at Ultradent on Amiryan Street, across from Samsung. The office was brand new, had excellent equipment, and you even put your feet into a machine which pops plastic baggies on them to keep the place spotless... a bit excessive I think, but certainly a nice change.

As I sit in the chair...

Gagik: What problem do you have?
Me: No problem.
Gagik: Wow, nobody in this country visits the dentist until it reaches the bone (minchev voskor' hasni).

That's a figure of speech, but I guess not many people go in for a regular cleaning. And I guess that doesn't surprise me.

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Tuesday, December 04, 2007

Where have I been?

It's been a very long time since I've posted, even longer since I've posted about life in Armenia. I attribute this to a few things: a) busy beyond comprehension, b) nothing new or interesting to say, and c) I'm out of the loop. Ever since my parents left in June, fixed friends in Yerevan started dropping like flies... my roommate, my close friends, one-by-one... started flocking to the US. Usually when that happens, a new crop comes in and fills the void. That didn't seem to happen this time. At least, not the same way. Instead, we hired more staff, and work became my life once again. Given the incredibly talented staff I have around me, this has become a good thing. Given the overload and constant piling up of projects, it has weighed down a bit, causing multiple all-nighters for far too long. But now that I have a second to breathe, reflecting back on the accomplishments can be a rewarding experience. I've mentioned before that Armenia's workforce is speeding up and it is starting to feel very similar to my days in the US, with more obstacles. Many of us came to Armenia hoping for the slower pace of life. I certainly hoped for it. It just doesn't exist anymore. But I definitely feel the rewards.

One of the recent projects we completed at Deem Communications is our first publication, Special Residency Status: 18 Tales from Armenian Repatriates. A collection of true short stories from 18 different Diasporans who live or have lived in Armenia, it's full of insane culture clashes that make you laugh and cry. Raffi Niziblian is completing his tour of Canada and the US (east coast) to publicize the book, but they will be available for sale at all Armenian retail stores throughout the US, Canada and Armenia.

Otherwise, I'm preparing for my first Christmas/New Years in Armenia. It will be my first away from my family, and Christmas is the one of very few times in the year when our family is ALL together, but I think there will be enough friends here who feel like family to fill the void. It has already snowed in Armenia and I'm hearing good ol' Sinatra and Louis Armstrong classics reminiscent of a New York Christmas, so people are starting to get into the spirit. We now have a balance of Diasporans and locals in the office, so some of the Lebanon guys started singing "Gaghand Baba" to the locals which turned into a sing-along. Strange that they don't have an Armenian version of that song here. They grew up learning the Russian Christmas songs.

And on deck, I am getting started on my first personal publication, My Nation: The Trails and Trials of an Armenian Repatriate, featuring photos from my entire life. More on this later, but you can expect a release date for May of 2008. I'll share the link when it's ready.