The Janapar streches along...

Another 5 day trip to Karabakh, and I think the Janapar hiking trail is now completely sorted out and should be completely marked by the end of the year! It was the fist time I visited a marked section of the trail, and it is great. The signs, as you can see in the picture, are a blue and yellow version of the logo I created... which if you look carefully you'll notice is an outline of Karabakh with toes on top - making it look like a footprint. I spoked out some sections of the trail I wanted to finalize and am very happy with the resulting finalized trail which will be well over 200 kilometers long. You'll go through villages, valleys, rivers, mountains, forests, and pass monasteries, fortresses, caves, a massive 2,000 year old tree, and even a water world along the way :-)

So go ahead and make your plans for next spring, or even later this year... a Dutch couple (non-Armenian) has already braved the southern portion of the trail. You don't need to bring along a tent or sleeping bag if you don't want to, for each days trail ends in a different village or town where there are homestays available.

Conversations with the waiter

I have a feeling there will be no end to the "conversations with the waiter", they are so often memorable here. This one is a submission from a repat that doesn't blog.

Sitting at Square One, one of us orders a hamburger, the other a chicken burger. When the waiter brings out two plates, it's obvious that they are identical.

Me (pointing to friend's plate): Excuse me, what is this?

Waiter: What did you order?

Me: Huh?

Waiter: What?

Me: I want to know what this is that you just brought out?

Waiter: Then tell me what you ordered.

Me (still pointing to friend's plate): Why do you need to know what I ordered before you tell me what this is?

Waiter: Well, how am I supposed to know what THAT is if you don't tell me WHAT you ordered?

Different F-word, Same Sentiment

And I mean “Football”.

It was Armenia vs. Portugal yesterday, and, man, I tell you, this can be summed up in one plain and simple “khaydaragoutiun”. Not the match, not the playing. We drew 1:1, which made many people very happy, so I’m glad, but the organisation and logistics were COMPLETELY… what word should I use ? Ridiculous, humiliating, dangerous, insane…

My group and I got there perhaps twenty minutes before the match was to start, so, maybe we were a bit later than we should have been, I admit it, but nothing could justify what we had to go through before we managed to get inside. There was one set of officials or cops or what-have-you checking tickets before the gates leading to the stadium, and then there were the gates themselves, which were closed. Closed. Only one would creek open a bit every once in a while.

Now, we are Armenians, and if there is one thing Armenians have in common all over the world, it is that we genetically are encoded to not be able to form a queue. Such was the case last night. The match had already started, and still the piles of people pushing and pulling remained more or less where they were, aggravating an already-unbearable situation. I cannot forget the face of that little kiddy, barely past one, hoisted on top of somebody’s shoulders so as not to be asphyxiated, crying for his mommy. So cute, yet so scary.

There are tons and tons of tourists and bunches of young sports enthusiasts here because of the Hamahaygagan Khagher. They had come to see the match in their groups, and one bunch of Tashnags broke out into song. Pretty soon, the Hnchag kids started up their own songs, and the two of them tried to outhoarse one-another. Funny and sad at the same time… There were odars around, and I expect most of them were afraid for some reason or other. Many people there did turn back, by the way.

We must have stood like sardines there for a good quarter of an hour before there was any movement at all. Then there was even more pushing and shoving before we could finally make it. We – everybody in our line, really – actually had to climb over that iron railing separating the paths to the different gates. One guy even climbed up a gate, but was stopped by the police before he could get in.

The police were complaining about us, we were complaining about them. Everybody’s complaining, cursing, pushing, pulling, smelling… I had my two hands on my wallet and cellphone the entire time.

We finally managed to make it in. There was another hassle getting into the actual stadium itself. It was SO packed, I can’t begin to describe it, and I felt truly scared that a mob would form and a riot would break out. Really. If it hadn’t been for my brother, I’m sure I would have turned back not too soon after arriving in the first place.

Of course, there were people in our seats, so we kicked them out, but, then again, there were people everywhere, all over the stands, in between them, on top of each other… I did not enjoy the match one bit. We missed our goal anyway, having to hear the thunderous applause and shouting stuck to each other beyond the gates. The Portuguese goal got me down a bit, too, although there was plenty of time and hope that we would score another and win.

Actually, now that I think about it, everybody being happy in the end makes sense because the Portuguese had time to score another goal and win, too, but they couldn’t, so drawing with them is something of an achievement, I suppose. But the organisation of the match was so deplorable that, even if we won, I would have felt like, “Oh, yes, ho-hum, so we won… Get me home now!”

Another futbol victory!

Wait! By victory, I mean a tie, which for Armenia, against Portugal, one of the strongest teams in Soccer, really is a victory. This will move them up significantly in the ranks, which they've been doing by leaps and bounds this season, and the crowds know it and are going crazy on the streets. The game ended an hour ago, but there are cars honking all over, and roving bands of singing and cheering fans going around with drums, air horns, kazoos, you name it, singing Hayer and Hayastan!

Shnorhavor to all of us!! :-)

ADL Statement on the Armenian Genocide

ARSINEH'S NOTE: You had me until "Having said that,"...



New York, NY, August 21, 2007 … Abraham H. Foxman, National Director of the Anti-Defamation League (ADL) today issued the following statement:

In light of the heated controversy that has surrounded the Turkish-Armenian issue in recent weeks, and because of our concern for the unity of the Jewish community at a time of increased threats against the Jewish people, ADL has decided to revisit the tragedy that befell the Armenians.

We have never negated but have always described the painful events of 1915-1918 perpetrated by the Ottoman Empire against the Armenians as massacres and atrocities. On reflection, we have come to share the view of Henry Morgenthau, Sr. that the consequences of those actions were indeed tantamount to genocide. If the word genocide had existed then, they would have called it genocide.

I have consulted with my friend and mentor Nobel Laureate Elie Wiesel and other respected historians who acknowledge this consensus. I hope that Turkey will understand that it is Turkey's friends who urge that nation to confront its past and work to reconcile with Armenians over this dark chapter in history.

Having said that, we continue to firmly believe that a Congressional resolution on such matters is a counterproductive diversion and will not foster reconciliation between Turks and Armenians and may put at risk the Turkish Jewish community and the important multilateral relationship between Turkey, Israel and the United States.


The Anti-Defamation League, founded in 1913, is the world's leading organization fighting anti-Semitism through programs and services that counteract hatred, prejudice and bigotry.

BREAKING NEWS: ADL Recognizes Genocide, Still Oppose Resolution

I'm literally just copy pasting these days, so I'll add my quick comment. It's amazing that such a firm policy has been reversed by mass-protest and dissent within. However, recognizing the Armenian Genocide does not make someone a hero, preventing it might. ADL's change in policy to me is only a sign of change to come, and thus newsworthy. However, ADL can only be free of its hypocrisy by supporting the Genocide Resolution. After all this, it's nice to see the Jewish community taking such a strong stance on the issue. Andrew Tarsy and many others have earned my respect.



ADL RECOGNIZES ARMENIAN GENOCIDE; REMAINS OPPOSED TO ARMENIAN GENOCIDE RESOLUTION
Sharp Reversal Comes in Wake of Nation-wide Protests

WASHINGTON, DC – The Anti-Defamation League (ADL), under pressure from a national campaign of protests initiated by the Armenian National Committee of Eastern Massachusetts, backed nationally by the Armenian National Committee of America (ANCA), and supported by leading voices in the Jewish American community, today reversed its longstanding policy of complicity in Turkey’s denial of the Armenian Genocide.

In a statement issued today, ADL National Director Abraham Foxman formally recognized the Armenian Genocide but – in what appeared to be a gesture intended to appease the Turkish government – voiced the organization’s continued opposition to legislation before Congress (H.Res.106 / S.Res.106) marking this crime against humanity.

“The ANCA welcomes the Anti-Defamation’s League’s decision to finally end its longstanding complicity in Turkey’s international denial campaign by properly recognizing the Armenian Genocide. We remain deeply troubled, however, that elements of its national leadership seek to prevent the United States from taking this very same principled step by adopting the Armenian Genocide Resolution currently before Congress,” said ANCA Executive Director Aram Hamparian. “Much work remains, both in bringing the ADL fully to the right side of this issue and on the broader challenge of achieving proper U.S. recognition of the Armenian Genocide. But we are, today, gratified by this step forward, and want to offer our thanks to all the many Armenians and Jews who cooperated together on this issue on the basis of our shared values of tolerance, truth and justice. We further urge the ADL leadership to review its unfair and unjustified decision to fire New England Regional Director Andrew Tarsy, who had the courage to speak truthfully on this key human rights issue.”

Read full story.

Conversations with the doctor

So after a week of this strange, lingering sore throat, I ventured to the doctor to get it checked. After the inspection process, she told me in Armenian I had an infection and inflammation in my throat. I wanted to figure out if there was a more specific name for what I have.

Me: What is my condition called? Is it perhaps strep throat? (strep throat I said in English)

Dr: I don't know that term, do you speak French?

Me: No, but go ahead and try me.

Dr: But do you speak French?

Me: No, but I might understand.

Dr: You have a good sense of humor. (totally thinking I'm joking)

Me: No, really, say it in French!

Dr: You have an inflamacion.

Me: Ah yes, an inflammation.

I hope some other bloggers will occasionally post some funny conversations they have... sometimes the confusion or misunderstanding can be truly impressive :-)

Conversations over a pizza order

When the idea of going to the Club came up, I was a bit lukewarm, until I remembered their fantastic pizza, which is exactly what I was in the mood for.

Me: I'll have the vegetarian pizza.

Waitress: We don't have pizza today.

Me: Why not?

Waitress: It's Sunday, we don't have pizza on Sundays.

Me: Why? What happens on Sundays?

Waitress: The pizza chef has to have a day of rest too.

Me: But, can't anyone else make a pizza????

Waitress: No.

I settled for a pretty greasy Su Boreg which was too small and a very good Armenian Salad, but it just wasn't the same, nor was it all that satisfying.

fourth Pan-Armenian Games opened on Saturday

Letter to the Anti-Defamation League

This is my letter to the ADL, which I submitted at the URL below. It is not meant for copy/pasting, simply sharing what I wrote. If you'd like to write to them too, use this address (and keep it to 1,000 characters or less). http://www.adl.org/contact_us.asp

I have been following the controversy over the Armenian Genocide within your organization, and I read the ad you are about to publish. Shame on you! At every step along the way you have chosen the wrong course, and continue to insist upon it. There are some things which are morally wrong, and for you, as Jews, to minimize the crime that the Armenians suffered, well as fellow genocide victims it's disgusting.

If anybody neglected to call your Shoah a Holocaust, and simply called it a tragedy, or events, as a matter of policy, you would be up in arms, and rightfully so. Your hypocritical stance on this issue has long been noted by the Armenian community, and it is fantastic that now, widespread coverage is showing many others that your organization MUST change its position on this matter, or accept that it has no role in any type of moral leadership.

No Place For Hate indeed. Genocide denial is hateful, believe it or not, even if we're not talking about Jews.

Amot tsezi,
Raffi

BREAKING NEWS: ADL Update

ADL local leader fired on Armenian issue
Genocide question sparked bitter debate

The Boston Globe | TOP STORY | COVER FIRST PAGE

By Keith O'Brien, Globe Staff | August 18, 2007

The national Anti-Defamation League fired its New England regional director yesterday, one day after he broke ranks with national ADL leadership and said the human rights organization should acknowledge the Armenian genocide that began in 1915.

The firing of Andrew H. Tarsy, who had served as regional director for about two years and as civil rights counsel for about five years before that, prompted an immediate backlash among prominent local Jewish leaders against the ADL's national leadership and its national director, Abraham H. Foxman. "My reaction is that this was a vindictive, intolerant, and destructive act, ironically by an organization and leader whose mission -- fundamental mission -- is to promote tolerance," Newton businessman Steve Grossman, a former ADL regional board member, said yesterday.

"I predict that Foxman's actions will precipitate wholesale resignations from the regional board, a meaningful reduction in ADL's regional fund-raising, and will further exacerbate the ADL's relationship with the non-Jewish community coming out of this crisis around the Armenian genocide."

Tarsy, 38, said he had been struggling with the national position for weeks and finally told Foxman in a phone conversation Thursday that he found the ADL's stance "morally indefensible."

Full story.

Ruben, Panagoom, and Armenian Air

Ok... really quickly since I'm in a rush....



On the 9th, I went to a Ruben Hakhverdian concert at Opera, which was AMAZING...



























On the 16th I went to the opening of the ARF Youth Organization's Panagoom at Yeraploor....




















Then, while at Vernisage with my friend, I discovered the FUNNIEST thing... Ya, you can buy a small can (like a tuna can) of ARMENIAN AIR for 1500 drams (about $5) and it is seriously an empty can.... lol

Conversations (toast to the priest)

I've been wanting for a while to regularly blog funny exchanges I hear here. Finally I'm starting, and hopefully it will be regular.

Sunday evening, while attending the post baptismal reception, the Tamada had the following exchange with the American-Armenian priest while toasting him, as the priest sat next to his own wife:

Tamada: (to the priest)... To you and your wife (pause)

Tamada: You are married right?

DK: Ayo

Tamada: (pause) Is that allowed?

DK: Ayo

Tamada: (longer pause) Is that her next to you?

DK: Ayo

Tamada: Then to you and your wife...

Hoagland, the ADL, Fisk, and Sports

I'm catching up on some recent big events around the world, much of which is music to my ears... TAH DAH!!!! The Bush Administration withdrew their nomination for Hoagland as the US Ambassador to Armenia after a vigorous campaign led by the Armenian National Committee of America to block his nomination after clearly denying the Armenian Genocide during several hearings in the Senate. The LA Times covered the story, or you can read the ANCA press release here.


Also more progress news on the genocide recognition front, the town of Watertown, Massachusetts (my old neighborhood) has cut ties with the Anti-Defamation League and their No Place for Hate program in response to their strong stance on denying the Armenian Genocide and lobbying Congress to block legislation recognizing the genocide. There is quite a heated exchange during the town meeting discussing the proclamation breaking the ties as an ADL representative dares to defend their stance. You can see the video at Hairenik Online TV Station here. Updates are being added regularly at the town's initiated website No Place for Denial.

In Armenia, Journalist for The Independent Robert Fisk paid a visit a couple weeks ago to give a lecture entitled "Threats, Lies & Videotape: The Armenian Genocide and Western Betrayal in the Middle East" at the American University of Armenia. The location is ironic considering most of the lecture is criticizing America's response to events in the Middle East and Armenia, mostly on the journalistic front, which frankly was quite truthful. He was direct with his attacks on journalists for their cowardly fear of use of the word "G-word" in describing the Armenian genocide even to the extent of describing it as insulting for even having a policy about not capitalizing the word. Sadly, the event was mostly attended by Diasporans as most locals had difficulty following English. He did write about his trip in The Independent just before he whisked off back to Lebanon. His lecture seemed well received, but he responded to some questions from the audience with a little pessimism. A few people asked about his thoughts on US legislation to recognize the Genocide, but better yet, someone asked about the actuality of a movement within Turkey to push toward a true democracy, including discussion of the Genocide. He didn't believe we should put our hope in such possibilities.

In other news, the masses have arrived in Yerevan for the highly-anticipated Pan Armenian Games. Opening Ceremonies take place tomorrow and I will be there to cheer. Also, The Armenian National Futbol Team will be playing against Portugal in Armenia next week... I will also be there. After the last win against Poland, spirits should be high, but I hope not to be wearing acrylic face paint this time. :) FUN!!!

raindrops and drams and subways...

It's raining nicely outside. Not too strong, unlike the random freak storms we've had a few times this month. This has dropped the temperature down a great deal, and is a fantastic respite from the heat we've been having. August usually is HOT! Let's see what the weather has in store for us this next week, as the Pan-Armenian games start tomorrow.

So I was reading Harut Sassounian's column this week about the dollar-dram exchange rate. I've written about it before. His main point is that the exchange rate, which has seen the dollar drop by about 40% in the last couple of years, has not been manipulated. Now I know Armenians love their conspiracy theories, but I agree, for the most part, there are solid reasons for the drop in the dollar, and no need to speculate about the cause. And while I agree that the markets for the most part need to decide these things, I don't think it would hurt at all for the Central Bank in Armenia to print some extra drams and finance some public works. This will mitigate the harshness of the exchange rate a little for the many Armenians here depending on remittances, and for exporters who's products are now too expensive to sell abroad. It will of course also provide the valuable service of whatever is built with the money.

One of my favorite causes would be the extension/completion of the metro system. We currently have basically one line with a dozen stops, and it is really not helpful for the most part in getting from point A to point B. The odds that you are already along the metro, and that your destination is as well, is very low. So, very few people use the beautiful, inexpensive metro we have, while traffic is exploding on the streets. There are plans on the books to extend the current one line to Davitashen, and add two brand new lines... so I say, what better time than the present? Spend some of these drams which have become so valuable, alleviate some of the traffic, and mitigate some of the drastic exchange rate drop in the dollar, and I think we'll all come out ahead.

Settle Iraqi Armenians in Shushi?

While I spent almost a week in Shushi last month, and reading the Monte Melkonian biography, one thought I kept having was how cool it would be if all the Iraqi Armenians were offered homes in Shushi. The settlement of the town has gone rather slowly (since most of the homes were destroyed and there is no job base), but the infusion of a Western Armenian population would create both an investment base and a new sub-culture there. It would also create a somewhat humorous situation as US mediators discuss the fate of a city now full or refugees from a country that has become war-torn and unfriendly to Christians since the US invasion. The Iraqi Armenian community could stay together in one place, with their neighbors and friends and family. The trick would be to see if Iraqi Armenians are at all receptive, and what incentives would make this sort of thing actually happen...

Pari Janabar...

Living in Armenia is marked with the arrival and departure of countless people. Some come for days, some for weeks, and then some are here for months or years. Meeting new arrivals and returnees, plus saying good bye are a part of the rhythm, and already this year had seen the departure of a few good friends. Last week the departure of a few close friends who'd been around a while all at once really emphasized how harsh this can be. Unlike when I moved here however, I have a great core of friends who are not transitional... or at least they're in the same boat as I am. Just living here and not planning on going anywhere anytime soon...

So, to my newly departed friends who have came at very different times, for very different reasons, pari janabar, and the best of luck on your various new stages in life!

In search of the perfect vardig

I'm travelling soon, will be out of town for about ten days, and therefore have I the necessity of acquiring more underpants than I currently possess. Now, Armenia has had a surge of goods and services over the past few years, but it has never shined in terms of availability of well-priced, quality tidy whities...

Once upon a time I had managed to buy some actual Armenian-manufactured ones - that was a few years ago - but some time afterwards they weren't around anymore, so I bought Armenian ones from another company, but they turned out to be pretty bad... Thus, disheartened, I set out on my pursuit yesterday, hoping against hope that, by eventide, I would proudly sport comfortable codpieces to my satisfaction. Not in public, of course, but, you know what I mean...

My first stop was an Armenian textile firmayin khanout. They had Persian ones, for a thousand drams each. I have to emphasise here that I didn't have much expectations from elsewhere, so I went ahead and bought three. Only later did I calculate that each came to about three dollars, more than a hundred rupees! (I surprised even myself by thinking of it in those terms, but there you have it. Old habits...)

Next was a tonavachar which had plenty of Turkish boxers and similar items. I was in a nationalistic mood, however, and declined the temptation. They were expensive, too. Some Chinese ones caught my eye, and - as God is my witness - I actually saw a vardig with a roaring lion's head designed on the front, right... there! Who would buy something like that ? I mean, if you've gotten to the point where you're flashing your underpants to someone, I don't think lions or even llamas make any difference...

Finally, I ended up in that place where I had bought my Armenian nerknazgestk those few years ago, and, sure enough, they were stocking them again. Okay, so they were grey, but they cost 530 drams each, and they're pure cotton, so I immediately bought quite a few of them.

Thus, to put it briefly, came to pass my grand quest to secure some slips.

Recognition and justice - a knawing problem in Asia as well

In today's New York Times, there were two interesting articles about recognition and justice. Both show quite clearly that the need for both by society is great, even when, as in these cases, over 60 years has passed since Japan forced thousands of women into sexual slavery, and 30 years has passed since the Cambodian genocide. They also show that in the case of the sex slaves, US Congress is being used to press for an apology by Japan, a US ally, despite the possibility of a negative reaction from the Japanese government. In this particular case, I'd like to know what percentage of the Japanese people even agree with their government.

In the case of the Cambodians, they are for the very first time charging someone with crimes during their internal genocide.

Here are some excerpts from the article about Japan. You can easily see Japan and Turkey being swapped, Armenians and the sex slaves, and WWII with WWI.

TOKYO, Wednesday, Aug. 1 — Prime Minister Shinzo Abe expressed some irritation on Tuesday at the resolution approved by the House of Representatives in Washington that calls on Japan to acknowledge its wartime sex slavery. His reaction indicated strongly that the Japanese government would not offer surviving victims an official apology.

“The resolution’s approval was regrettable,” said Mr. Abe, who caused a furor in Asia and the United States in March by denying that the Japanese military had directly coerced women into sex slavery in World War II.

...

Asked whether he would comply with the House resolution’s demand for an official apology, Mr. Abe said: “The 20th century was an era in which human rights were violated. I would like to make the 21st century into an era with no human rights violations.”

On Monday, the House unanimously passed the nonbinding resolution strongly urging the Japanese government to “formally acknowledge” and “apologize” for its military’s “coercion of women into sexual slavery.” Japan had lobbied hard against the resolution in Washington, warning that it could harm relations.

Mr. Abe has expressed sympathy for the former sex slaves. But he has consistently refused to acknowledge the military’s role in directly coercing women into sex slavery despite historical evidence and the testimony of many of the women.

Some of the former sex slaves, known euphemistically as “comfort women” in Japan, and their advocates welcomed the resolution. But they expressed anger at Mr. Abe’s response.

“Abe denies that they were the ones who violated the women,” said Jan Ruff O’Herne, 84, a Dutch woman who was forced into sex slavery in Indonesia. “I didn’t expect anything better from him than that.”

“But this resolution puts enormous pressure on the Japanese government,” Ms. Ruff said by phone from her home in Adelaide, Australia. “I’m still hoping that something will happen because the women are getting old, and we deserve a proper apology.”

Gil Won-ok, 78, a South Korean who was forced into sex slavery in northeast China, said from Seoul, “Truth survives and lies never win.”

Parliament has never endorsed an official apology and acknowledgment of its sex slavery, the central demand in the House resolution, though past prime ministers have issued letters of apology to some former sex slaves.

This spring, Mr. Abe rejected any demand for an apology. But since then, he has avoided discussing the issue in detail. He has repeated that many human rights violations occurred in the last century, angering former sex slaves and their supporters who say his comments were meant to play down Japan’s crimes.

“Abe really does not know his history,” said Nelia Sancho, leader of Lolas Kampanyera, a group supporting former sex slaves in Manila. “In order to create a world without human rights violations, each state has to learn from its past mistakes and, most importantly, it has to redress its past violations. Until that is done, the 21st century will not become an era with no human rights violations.”

So we are not that unique - here are two cases where people many decades after the event simply cannot abide with the lies, the injustice, and wouldn't let anybody tell them that it's all history and past and should simply be forgotten/put aside.