Istanbul

I was in Istanbul last week, attending a 5-day seminar on "Young Women living in conflict areas". This was a meeting seminar organised by women's organizations from the South Caucasus (Armenia, Azerbaijan, Abkhazia and Georgia). We were 5 women representing Armenia from different organisations. The initiative was sponsored by the Kvinna til kvinna Swedish organisation which is a feminist organisation who sponsors empowerment projects in different conflict regions (Balkans, middle-east and Caucasus...).

The meeting was interesting and challenging at the same time. We were 21 young women overall and we discussed different matters and issues that young women face in our region; violence, gender discrimination in education and work, lack of sexual rights and reproductive choices, etc. After 4 days of discussions, reflection and debates we finally agreed on conducting a regional survey to assess the concrete needs of young women living in the region as well as to start-up a network among our organisations.

Being once again in Istanbul was amazing! It is the only place that makes me experience all sort of emotions at the same time (love, hate, anger, fear, frustration, fulfillment...) Even though this time we were a little worried to go there in the first place, because of what was happening lately, it ended being a good experience. People advised us before going there, not to speak loudly in Armenian, not to mention that we were from Armenia or not to hang out near crowded areas.

For those who know Istanbul, it is almost impossible to pass by Taksim Square and Istiklal street without losing yourself in the big, gigantic crowd of people from all colors, ethnicity, style, religion and beliefs. After being discrete the first days, we couldn't help it anymore and we ended up one night in a very popular club (Istanbul has an amazing nightlife) with 21 young women dancing on the rhythms of Abkhazian and Armenian music...surrounded by Turks, Kurds, Abkhazians, Georgians, Greeks and Azeris who were having a blast on Lorke and Chalakho music.

On my way back home, while waiting at the Sheremetyevo (Moscow) airport for my transit flight, I was reflecting on my journey there and how good I felt being in a city that I learned to despise all my life and how familiar I felt everything was there.

It was sad for me that I was feeling at home more in Istanbul than in Yerevan sometimes (my father would not like this entry) and how each food I tasted or music I heard reminded me of my childhood, my home, and most of all my grand-mothers. And I felt how I belonged to that city despite myself and the city belonged to me in a way inherited from my grand-mothers...

I am now reading "The Bastard of Istanbul" of Elif Shafak, it is helping me understand alot...