What do you pack for life?

My entire life is spilled out onto the floor, bed, and has spread to the next room. This may be the most creative packing job I have ever conducted. I'm minimizing AND maximizing at the same time. Tetris experts would appreciate this.

Well, the week of advocacy in DC is over, I had a couple goodbye parties already, and tonight is my last night as a US Resident. Everyone keeps asking me if I'm nervous. I am not. I'm just taking things in stride. But I'm also extremely excited to move onto the next stage of my life.

It's very hard to say goodbye to people, mostly for the reason that I think I might be seeing 90% of my friends in Armenia this summer. Ever single person I say bye to, it's followed by, "well, I'll see you in a month or two anyway." Even my sister and her husband, my cousin and his wife will be visiting. Sister hasn't been since 1995, her husband hasn't been since communist days, my cousin hasn't been since 1998, and his wife hasn't been EVER. So this summer truly is the year for the non-regulars to return.

Seriously, 90% of my friends may even be understating it. Almost EVERYONE I know is coming this summer... Brace yourself Yerevan, you will be experiencing Diaspora overload very soon. I LOVE IT!

Rain...

Again, some random things to share, but first I'd like to say it is STILL raining. I don't remember the last time I've experienced this much rain. My friend was up in Lori the last couple of days and it was snowing, which apparently it did in the higher elevations of Yerevan as well. Today we were on a hike in Khosrov Reserve, it was a LOOOOONG hike, and very very wet and muddy. The monastery at the end of the hike though, was quite cool - so I'm not going to complain too much, as exhausted and soggy as I am. I just got back, it was a 12 hr day - at least half of it was constant hiking, with a lot of elevation involved. I realize there hasn't been a picture on this page for a while (maybe that will change with the arrival of Arsineh), so here is a picture of Aghjots Vank (aka Surp Stepanos) - the monastery at the end of our hike...

On a totally different note, it has become popular in the past couple of years for advertisers to tape cards to your front door. Usually taxi companies, sometimes internet, a restaurant, or something else. Well these bugged me, and I always took them off, but a week ago decided I'd just let them all collect on my door. What difference does it make to me? An interesting thing happened. First one taxi service was up, then an internet company... a good start to a door covered in these things... but then I noticed that the internet company card had changed. When a competitor came to put up theirs, they saw the old one and took it down before adding theirs. This cracked me up, and I realized the number of cards would be limited to just a few if this kept up. Now I came home and saw both cards are gone. A helpful neighbor who didn't want it to look like I'm not around I assume - or thought it was ugly.

Tomorrow is May Day (Labor Day) in Armenia and in this part of the world in general, so to all the workers of the world... good job! :-)

tourists and fashion...

The tourist season has begun even earlier than ever. For the last 3 weeks I've been seeing a lot of foreigners on the streets. I don't know where they're coming from, how many are Diasporan and how many completely non-Armenian, but it bodes well for the industry... visitors all just seem to love it here - I hear more and more people wanting to stay, wanting to move here... how can you sit at a cafe with a friend, people watching, drinking a half liter beer for 50 cents, walk all over in safety, and not entertain the thought?

Speaking of people watching - another tiny, but groundshaking change in the fashion here. Every single guy no longer crops his hair uniformly to 1 cm (half an inch). The new thing is for the hair on top to go long, and grow straight forward, a huge difference in looks and a big step towards the non-standardization of hairstyles. The guys look so much better with this one little change, and many have started to dress more normally too, with pointy black shoes taking a first-time drop in popularity. Girls, who still have a different style than in the west, have been looking great for a few years now... they give the girls in any city in the world a serious run for their money - though you don't get as much variation in height, hair, eye and skin color as you do in Australia, Barcelona or other multi-ethnic cities obviously.

Cold snap / april 24

We are experiencing a serious cold snap - I could see my breath at noon, and finally gave in after a few days of this and turned my heater on. Rain, day after day too. Crazy weather, but my big fear is for the cherished apricot crop... if hail comes, it will be a disaster.

With April 24 over, the yellow ribbon campaign is now finished. I hear some far-flung communities even had put on yellow ribbons. A friends sister came to Yerevan for the first time, landing at 11pm on the 24th. At midnight, she was taken to the memorial, where the flowers were piled as high as her. What an amazing picture... 9 years to the hundredth anniversary... how many years until recognition? I can see it coming. Slowly.

Homeward bound

I'm jumping the gun here, but I think both Kojian and I just got so excited to switch me to the repat page. Perhaps I can start by sharing the preparation experience for such a move. And there is SO much to tell. I fly to Paris on May 1 and continue to Yerevan on May 6. Until then, there is too much to be done to possibly finish it all. In true Arsineh nature, I have decided to double up major events in my life: April 24th events and packing my life.

I just returned from a 2 week visit to LA where I managed to see half of the population of Glendale and fit in some work as well. I was brought into the PR team for the ANCA Telethon to take place on May 21 throughout the United States. In record time I managed to pump out posters, banners, ads, postcards, and then some within a few days. I also had some time to hang out with Gor Mkhitarian who's popularity is growing. I also had a chance to hear the new CD from the group "Element" which I have to recommend (beautiful). I met one of the musicians who is dating a friend of mine, and the music is in him. I also caught up with my dear friends Armen Carapetian (ANCA Executive Director) and Ardy Kassakhian (Glendale City Clerk) over REAL tacos at a run down taco shack... mmmm... followed by a visit to the Paul Krikorian campaign headquarters in the middle of Easter night at 2 am tossing around a football... and nearly smashing a fax machine. Good one Armen.

Of course LA is never complete without the MANY cousins. I had Easter dinner (night before, barskahye style) with my cousins on one side, mostly reminising on memories and laughing the night away. Easter day was spent with my cousin and his wife's family who are incredible. Sometimes families are meant to come together. My cousin's wife's neice also graced us with her incredible smile and playfulness. What a happy baby! A good time was had by all.

Now I'm back in DC facing a loaded week. I'm currently wrapping up some design projects for Meneshian while preparing to move to Armenia. To top it off, this year's April 24th in DC will be a historic one. As you all probably know, Serj and John from System of a Down will be attending all the events in DC, including the Demonstration at the Turkish Embassy, A screening on Capitol Hill of the documentary "Screamers", and the Armenian Genocide Observance on Capitol Hill on Wednesday. To add to that, David Alpay (played "Raffi" in "Ararat") and Alecko Eskandarian (of DC United) will also be attending the Hill Observance.

But as the protest creeps up on us, it is starting to feel more like we are preparing for battle. It seems the Turks have organized a counter-protest at the same time, same location. Extra Tshirts were printed, extra signs were drawn, and the buzz is spreading. Expect to see record numbers this year. But I can't help but anticipate major confrontation considering only 4 lanes with a lot of rush hour traffic will separate the two groups. I'm glad the Turks don't realize that they are getting us more pumped and will create more of a scene for the public to see. Apparently the local DC rock radio stations have been promoting the protest to System fans. I have been designated the official photographer for all events, so my website will be updated VERY soon, which adds more work to my plate before I leave.

But to get to the most important issue here, the dominant thought in my mind is the excitment to move to Armenia. Just the last few weeks of traveling, moving around like a drifter, practicing the minimal life, I can't wait to lay my head down on my new bed and call it home. Every conversation I have, every email I receive always turns back to that subject. My Armenian eye doctor asked me what I'll do there. Some people are emailing me thinking I'm already there. Some people are frantically calling to catch me before I leave, some are sharing their envy, some their confusion. But few truly realize what this move means, and pardon me for the overdramatic sentimentality, but those who know me can appreciate it's honesty. This move has been 4 years in the works. There was very little doubt in my head through the years, though there have been weak moments. There have also been desparate moments where I was close to catching the first flight to Yerevan without telling anyone. Many have asked me what I'll do there. I have options, but nothing is in stone. I will go with an open mind and open heart. But the one thing I feel most is strength, and almost excitement to face the challenges I know I will meet. It's a good thing I've tried this before.

So much can change so quickly in such a short amount of time. Where just over a month ago I was doing the daily routine and working an 8-7 job with little freedom to move about without my boss's okay, the last month and next week, month, year, life, will bring me excitement and freedom to live a life a have chosen for myself. If only I could recite this, I'd win an Oscar.

Stay tuned for all that's to come.

Yellow Ribbon Campaign to Protest Genocide Denial

Yellow Ribbon Campaign to Protest
Recall of Ambassador Evans and Genocide Denial


In the end, we will remember not the words
of our enemies, but the silence of our friends.
- Dr. Martin Luther King Jr.

19 April 2006
Yerevan, Armenia – In response to the imminent recall of U.S. Ambassador to Armenia John Marshall Evans for publicly acknowledging the Armenian Genocide, a "Yellow Ribbon Campaign" has been planned for April 24, 2006. The campaign is also in response to a number of recent instances in which high-ranking foreign diplomats in Armenia have denied the Armenian Genocide.

Organized by Armenian-Americans in Armenia and Friends, a newly created, ad-hoc group based in the Armenian Republic, the grassroots campaign will take place at the Tsitsernakaberd Memorial to the Armenian Genocide in Yerevan. The monument is dedicated to the 1.5 million victims of the Genocide of the Armenians perpetrated by the Ottoman Turkish Empire between 1915 and 1923.

On April 24, 2006, when hundreds of thousands of marchers will converge on the Tsitsernakaberd Memorial in commemoration of the victims of the Genocide, the Yellow Ribbon Campaign will commence by participants tying yellow ribbons on 100-meter long ropes stretched along the walking path leading to the Genocide Monument.

"During the last number of years, we have witnessed public denials of the Armenian Genocide by several diplomats," said Paula Devejian, a member of the group. "Such politically motivated actions are offensive and insulting. By attempting to dismiss the indisputable fact of the Armenian Genocide, those engaged in denial insult the memory of the victims, their descendents and the Armenian nation as a whole. In our present-day reality of a free and independent Armenian Republic, Armenians throughout the world feel the pain of denial even more when it's perpetrated by representatives or leaders of countries that are otherwise acknowledged as friends and allies of Armenia."

According to Devejian, the Yellow Ribbon Campaign was put into motion following what is widely regarded as the Bush Administration's retribution against Ambassador Evans for publicly labeling the events in Ottoman Turkey at the beginning of the 20th century as "genocide". Soon after the Ambassador's comments, (made in statements to Armenian-American leaders in February 2005), the U.S. State Department forced Evans to publicly retract his statements and apologize, then coerced the American Foreign Service Association into an unprecedented move of rescinding the prestigious "Constructive Dissent" award he was granted, and now subsequently, the Ambassador is being recalled from his post and forced into early "retirement".

"It is difficult to see a great ally and friend of Armenia like the U.S. as an objective and unbiased mediator in the Nagorno-Karabagh peace process and Armenian-Turkish relations when our government is subject to Turkish pressure and blackmail, and resorts to censorship. We are amazed that the United States would allow a third country to affect the bilateral relations between itself and Armenia." said Devejian.

"We believe that the American Government must be the standard bearer of free speech and human rights, and we are concerned that its actions against Ambassador Evans amount to less than an adequate commitment to these principles."

The newly formed group also cited examples of foreign diplomats denying the Armenian Genocide while holding posts in Armenia, including Israeli Ambassador Rivka Cohen, who in 2002 dissociated the Armenian Genocide from the Jewish Holocaust, thereby questioning the fact of the Genocide; and U.K. Ambassador Thorda Abbott-Watt, who in 2004 denied the Genocide, causing outrage in Armenia and Armenian communities throughout the world.

"Such disrespectful acts against the Armenian people and nation will continue if we do not put an end to the complacent acceptance of such politically motivated diplomatic denial by these countries. States have an obligation to understand that the promotion of democratic values, principles and true freedom come through their own actions and examples," Devejian explained. "The Yellow Ribbon Campaign is an expression of protest against Genocide denial and punishment of free speech. It is an impassioned, peaceful call by Armenians from all walks of life for fairness and justice, in both political and humanitarian terms."

# # #

Armenian Americans in Armenia and Friends
Yerevan, Armenia
Contact e-mail: genocide_ribbon@yahoo.com

HAYQ (a.k.a. LAO)

I know the subject of pirated cds has come up on this site before, and as a music composer/producer myself it naturally upsets me as well, but what recently happened is even more frustrating.

A couple of years ago I met a couple of young local Armenians, brothers, who rap in Armenian. We met up on many occasions brainstorming on ideas, but nothing came about until this past winter. They created a commercial style hip hop group, sort of like an Armenian "Black-Eyed Peas", called HAYQ. The group consists of the brothers - Narek & Felix and songwriter Hayk ... all rapping, African-Armenian dark-skinned Hrant on male vocals (who already has a couple of albums released with his sister), and Syuzi, a cute female vocalist.

They've written quite a few songs already, but one song called Qami Pchi caught my attention, and so they asked me to produce it for them. (My first Armenian song production.) The song is a mixture of rap and vocal (with some hints of Armenian and Mid Eastern vocal melodies), and on the verge of rabiz, but still very pop. We recorded the vocals, I also ended up changing some of the lyrics and melodies, arranged it, mixed it, and recorded the final mix at my studio. I handed over the master copy right before I left for Canada, and they started pushing the track, performing in a few clubs here and there, yet without radio play, no video to promote the song, and no album which anyone could find the song on in stores. What happens next? The song is stolen from God knows where, and put on a compilation called "Tuyn Havakatsu 2006" (Poison Collection 2006). And as if that's not bad enough, the song is out as being performed by Hay Tgheq featuring Sirusho. (For those of you who don't know who Hay Tgheq is, they are the most popular local rap group.)

So the group, HAYQ, barely has money, but they are working on a video now (which they are directing themselves, and being shot by Hrach Qeshishyan's cameraman) and it should be out soon. Apparently the song is already a huge hit. According to friends of mine and the guys themselves, the pirated song is selling like mad, and you can hear the song being played in shops and cars all over Yerevan. I'll be back home soon, and will help promote the song like mad, make it the 2006 summer hit of the country, work on a follow-up, and in the meantime find the _sses that stole the song and call the cops on them. LOL! As if that would change anything.

Jugha khachkars destruction confirmed...

Sadly, the Armenian reports of the complete destruction of the old Jugha cemetary are correct. If anyone doubted them, a third-party verification has come through for the first time. I don't know what the Armenian government plans to do about this, but frankly, I think peace talks are a joke at this point, and serious action needs to be taken... we are getting treated like crap from way too many directions and taking it way too quietly.

...Now an IWPR contributor has become the first journalist to visit the site of the cemetery on Azerbaijan’s border with Iran - and has confirmed that the graveyard has completely vanished.

See the article.

Yellow Ribbon Campaign

PRESS RELEASE

During the last few years we have witnessed several disturbing examples of diplomats and representatives who have publicly denied the Armenian Genocide.

• In 2002 Israeli Ambassador to Armenia Rivka Cohen made a statement disassociating the Armenian Genocide from the Jewish Holocaust, thereby questioning the fact of the Armenian Genocide.
• In 2004, the United Kingdom Ambassador to Armenia, Thorda Abbott Watt, twice denied the Armenian Genocide during her tenure, causing outrage among Armenians both in Armenia and the Diaspora.

The third instance differs from the previous two examples in that the Ambassador of one of our ally nations was punished by that same country for speaking the truth;

• Last year U.S. Ambassador to Armenia John Marshall Evans held meetings with Armenian Diaspora communities in the United States. During these meetings, Ambassador Evans had the courage to call for an end to word games, expressed his conviction for calling things by their name and called for the recognition of the Armenian Genocide. Following these statements, several punishments by the U.S. State Department ensued: initially the Ambassador was forced to publicly “take back” his words and to apologize. Now, and most hurtful to us is the fact that Ambassador Evans is being recalled for speaking out the whole truth about the Armenian Genocide.

Such disrespectful actions against the Armenian nation will continue if we do not put an end to such diplomatic denial by these nations.

The Yellow Ribbon Campaign has been organized to shatter the silence surrounding the Armenian Genocide.

Why a Yellow Ribbon Campaign? Because the color yellow signifies hope for the future. With this campaign we appeal to the world, specifically to the nations we consider our friends, to end such insensitive policies and silence towards the pain of an entire nation.

In this regard, we would like to remember the poignant words spoken by Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. “In the end, we will remember not the words of our enemies, but the silence of our friends... a time comes when silence is betrayal.”

We call out to the Armenian nation to join this campaign.

Organized by Armenian-Americans in
Armenia and Friends

Kristos haryav i merelots

Orhnyal e haroutiunn Kristosi

Sourp Zadige shnorhavor polorin!
Happy Easter to everyone!


Yes, yes, I know that religion is not a staple of this blog, but I'm afraid it's very much a part of Life in Armenia. Easter is gaining a stronger foothold of late or, rather, I should say it is re-acquiring its importance with the people. I've noticed a resurgence in maintaining church traditions around here; more and more people are attending mass, and there is a greater awareness of the significance of Christianity, particularly for the Armenians.

Well, let me have the honour of wishing everyone who reads this blog a wonderful Easter. Try out the traditional Armenian greeting and reply above, which means, "Christ is resurrected from the dead. Blessed is the resurrection of Christ".
Happy egg-cracking!

Happy Birthday to us...

Next week marks the 5 year anniversary of the Life in Armenia blog. In April, 2001 the original cast began writing. Since then some people have stopped writing, others have joined in... almost everyone who has written here on what I call the repat log for short is still here in Armenia.

I want to say a sincere thank you to all the writers on this blog and the other blogs, for sharing a part of themselves with the world, for putting themselves out there. I know it's not always easy, not always fun (though it often is), but what we have shared here I think is a fascinating glimpse into one of the most formative periods of the Armenian nation.

I also want to say that many readers have written really encouraging messages to us, and just been so cool in general - a number of which we've met in person. It really did encourage us and remind us that people look forward to the latest word on the street here. Last month we were averaging 2,000 readers A DAY for this page and the Diaspora page combined, which is just so awesome.

It's been a crazy five years, Armenia is now a very different place, and the number of repats continues to grow. I can only imagine what the country will be like in 5 more years...

Pari Janabar to us all...

no visas?

I've read a report or two stating that Americans, Canadians, and Japanese no longer need visas to enter Armenia. Can this be true?

cheesecake!

www.cheezler.com for all of you repats who miss cheesecake! You can even order online!!

Live from Yeghegnzdzor...

Yesterday Armenia had no internet. Period (at least in the morning). Did I mention how nice it would be for ArmenTel to be bought by a company that can actually run a telecom operation here? Or cares to? Now I'm using the Yeghegnadzor ISP dial-up from Antoines house. It's nothing to boast about, but it's a connection.

We were discussing where we should go on a little exploration yesterday, and somehow, in the end, we decided to just see what this Khachig village is all about. It is just perched on the border with Nakhichevan at the end of a long road, and the information on what to see there was a bit sketchy. So we called a cab, and for 5,000 dram ($11), they said they'd take us there, drive us around/wait a bit, and return (it's about an hours drive each way). It was just one of those trips you can't do justice to in words - so I'll post some pics when I get back to Yerevan. The weather was putting on a show for us the likes of which you might never see in a lifetime... Khachig as it so happens overlooks Nakhichevan, and we could see Ararat, plus rain falling in the distance, with the sun poking through to illuminate this huge reservoir, and the rain in spots, the landscapes were fantastic, with an overview of the entire Noravank canyon along the way up. In any case, it was a complete surprise of the best kind. Now as I sit in Antoines living room the sun has lit up the top of Ararat, which is visible from where I sit. So I'm off to get some pictures.

To the countryside...

I've been back almost a month, and still havn't made it out of Yerevan. Well, today's the day! And it's an overnighter. I'm off to Yeghegnadzor to visit a repatriate who's living out there, bought a house, and spends much of his year there. I like the town, love the area (wine country, lots of great hikes, monasteries, fortresses, caves...), and am just looking forward to some fresh air and peace and quiet. Plus I'm taking along some sweet corn seeds, sweet potatoes, some of the hardy kiwis I've grown from seed and which need good homes now, plus other seeds. I'll have to visit in the fall to enjoy some of the harvest :-)

Speaking of plants though, if anyone is coming soon and would be willing to bring some small plants, please let me know. There are a couple more varieties of plants I'd like to see here. They'd be very light and very small (no soil, just some moss for the roots) and they'd be mailed right to you).

Lots of interesting news this week - yesterday I saw that ArmenTel is for sale, I really hope someone decent buys it and finally offers high speed internet for a reasonable price.

April Fools!

Yes folks, as most people who commented correctly guessed, we tried to trick you with an April Fool's Day prank. I believe this was the first such Armenian online April 1 joke, and I hope most of you had fun with it, since that was the spirit of the gag :-)

Coincidentally, and not a joke (it is after all April 2! and you can actually check this one on Asbarez Online) is the little blurb I found on Groong today about this very issue. So if we report on this in a week or a month, it won't be a joke. I would really love to know what was actually said, especially about the genocide, since this is quite vague and I can't imagine Fried actually used the word genocide.

Ankara May Soon Open Its Borders with Armenia, Says Daniel Fried

WASHINGTON, DC (Armenpress)--Daniel Fried, the US Assistant State Secretary on Eurasian and European affairs, said after his visit to the South Caucasus that "Ankara may open its borders with Armenia in a short period of time."

According to Turkish "Aksham," Fried said that during his meetings in Ankara he discussed the issue of opening the Turkish-Armenian border and told the Turkish government that the US demands the border be opened.

Fried also mentioned the issue of the Armenian genocide, saying that works is being done to make Turkey come into terms with its history.

What April Fools?

Super System has no sound...What April Fools? What are you guys talkin' about?

I had the Turkish technician come over and look at it!

What is up??

Woke up a bit late this morning and immediately took Rocky for a walk... in the ten minutes outside I noticed a few cars with turkish plates... is this really happening??

I've finally had it with Super System--the cable provider. For a month they didn't have English language programs--well, sorry, they had the programs but none of the English sound came out. My guess is someone forgot to pay the bill, but who am I to know these things... Super System aint' so super if you ask me...they've just got the market cornered.

I'm trying to figure out why they're showing the Armenian-Turkish border constantly on TV this morning--my damned Super System is not functioning again and I have no sound for some reason.

Wait a minute...I didn't even look at the logs before posting, is the border really open? I have to get myself together, and get out there and figure out what's up.

Leave it up to the Turks to open the border on a Saturday--the only day we have for rest. They couldn't have done it on a Monday or Tuesday, no, a Saturday it had to be.

I googled just now and apparently Myrthe (of the expat logs) has heard the same thing...Very strange...

we'll see... Good saturday to you all as well.

TURKISH BORDER IS OPEN!!

Wow, this is some huge, crazy news. Even in this slow to wake-up town, the place is abuzz. I went on an early morning walk and people are stunned, excited... it's the end of an era. I was in Republic Square and crowds of ppl were gathered, talking, celebratory. They apparently opened the borders at midnight, without any fanfare, or even an announcement yet, which is coming. The borders have always been ready to open at a moments notice, and you've got to give the rumor mill and Raffi N's sources credit, they knew what was going on. I might try and arrange a trip even for today to visit Kars... drive by Ararat...

To put it mildly, it is a historic day!

A dream finally coming true

What a crazy day.
To start, this was my last day at work. I have decided not to renew my contract with VivaCell after completing one year as the Commercial Manager. It was a great experience and I learned a lot.

On a second note, there was a buzz in town about the sudden arrival of the MFA of Turkey. He arrived this morning for a special meeting. Some people are speculating that it has something to do with NKR, others are saying it is about the Genocide issue. But I heard from a very reliable source that the real purpose – are you ready for this? – is to finally open the border between Armenia and Turkey - ASAP. It seems that there has been some confidential discussions for months now. I think tomorrow morning, if all agreements go well, the Government should be announcing some formal procedure to travel across the border. Anyhow, I am hoping that this is not just a rumor and soon we will be going back and forth and having more Turkish products sold at our friendly grocery stores for even cheaper... note, I am not a consumer of these goods.

This being said, I would probably consider a quick trip next week or so. I've been dreaming of seeing Ani and my ancestral land...