Out with the old, in with the new
Yerevan culture was once the intellectual feeding ground where artists, writers, composers, architects and physicians roused. Practically every building in Yerevan had a legacy – places where the Armenian cream of the crop would meet to discuss politics, arts and everything in between.
One can only imagine how relatively parallel the image was to Paris where the likes of Jean-Paul Sartre, Erik Satie, or Alphonse Mucha would populate the Closerie des Lilas, Les Deux Magots or Café de Flore.
Whether meeting places for intellectuals or just art-work for walkers, old buildings have always been important in the public life of a capital city; they have always been the place to go to read, to write, to dream and to inspire.
That sensitive Yerevan culture is now breaking down, and with it, some would agree, is the intellectual streamline of the nation.
Walk through any street in Yerevan, and you are bound to bump into new and eye soaring buildings that have replaced the gorgeous artistic landscape that once adorned this city. I’m just imagining what Tamanian is doing in his grave at the moment while he sees how the city he once had developed is being completely transformed – a city that was once filled with historical and heritage buildings.
All capital cities in Western and Eastern Europe have in fact gone through these changes over time, but none of them have transformed their city so much so as to abolish the constructions of Frank Lloyd Wright, Le Corbusier or even of Bauhaus school-inspired Art Deco. All cities have in fact modernized themselves over time, but none have truly destroyed or removed the gorgeous landscaping created by their edifices.
Urban developers in Yerevan are reassuring the public that all heritage building facades in Yerevan will be transferred over to a corner in the city called “Hin Yerivan” or Old Yerevan. But what a tale this is. We already know that the true value of Yerevan has diminished thanks to the disappearing of refined artists and professionals. But add to this the destruction or removal of the buildings in which they had created their work, and we are erasing the entire memory of these people and all they had represented.
The new buildings in Yerevan are pointing to the growth of a new mentality in Armenia. Yerevan is turning into an exclusively business-oriented central station. Multi-millionaires, it seems, will be the only ones to afford living and/or working in Yerevan in the near future.
It’s so sad to see how the sidewalks of Apovian or Mashtots are falling apart – stones on which many generations of intellects and professionals have walked which are now collapsing; whereas adjacent to them, the new sidewalks of the Northern Avenue are being meticulously set, colored and nurtured.
When will we learn that not everything related to the past is bad? Why can’t we have leaders of this city and this nation who can appreciate what has been and continues to be culturally inspiring in this country? New technologies and modern methods are always great, but we should never forget the past, or ignore the beauty of the old.
‘Out with the old and in with the new’ is not always necessarily a welcoming trend.
One can only imagine how relatively parallel the image was to Paris where the likes of Jean-Paul Sartre, Erik Satie, or Alphonse Mucha would populate the Closerie des Lilas, Les Deux Magots or Café de Flore.
Whether meeting places for intellectuals or just art-work for walkers, old buildings have always been important in the public life of a capital city; they have always been the place to go to read, to write, to dream and to inspire.
That sensitive Yerevan culture is now breaking down, and with it, some would agree, is the intellectual streamline of the nation.
Walk through any street in Yerevan, and you are bound to bump into new and eye soaring buildings that have replaced the gorgeous artistic landscape that once adorned this city. I’m just imagining what Tamanian is doing in his grave at the moment while he sees how the city he once had developed is being completely transformed – a city that was once filled with historical and heritage buildings.
All capital cities in Western and Eastern Europe have in fact gone through these changes over time, but none of them have transformed their city so much so as to abolish the constructions of Frank Lloyd Wright, Le Corbusier or even of Bauhaus school-inspired Art Deco. All cities have in fact modernized themselves over time, but none have truly destroyed or removed the gorgeous landscaping created by their edifices.
Urban developers in Yerevan are reassuring the public that all heritage building facades in Yerevan will be transferred over to a corner in the city called “Hin Yerivan” or Old Yerevan. But what a tale this is. We already know that the true value of Yerevan has diminished thanks to the disappearing of refined artists and professionals. But add to this the destruction or removal of the buildings in which they had created their work, and we are erasing the entire memory of these people and all they had represented.
The new buildings in Yerevan are pointing to the growth of a new mentality in Armenia. Yerevan is turning into an exclusively business-oriented central station. Multi-millionaires, it seems, will be the only ones to afford living and/or working in Yerevan in the near future.
It’s so sad to see how the sidewalks of Apovian or Mashtots are falling apart – stones on which many generations of intellects and professionals have walked which are now collapsing; whereas adjacent to them, the new sidewalks of the Northern Avenue are being meticulously set, colored and nurtured.
When will we learn that not everything related to the past is bad? Why can’t we have leaders of this city and this nation who can appreciate what has been and continues to be culturally inspiring in this country? New technologies and modern methods are always great, but we should never forget the past, or ignore the beauty of the old.
‘Out with the old and in with the new’ is not always necessarily a welcoming trend.
posted by Lara at 7:43 PM
29 Comments:
I couldn't agree with this more. I spent hours- days even, going through the construction area where the older buildings were being torn down and taking pictures last summer. It was so odd to discover a somewhat village-like, primitive former living space right in the middle of our beloved city that seemed like a secret covered behind new walls. The shiny new buildings will make it feel like one of those bad dreams next time I go back to Yerevan. The dreams where you go back home and your house is slightly esque and everythings off.
I have a pretty good collection of photos from Yerevan as I mentioned, and they are sitting on my laptop, not going to much use. If you, or anyone want to use them for any reasons, I'd be more then happy to share.
-Haik
Haik, if you want, send me these pictures and I'll post them on my blog. I've emailed you about it, too.
I agree that it is sad to see the real old Yerevan disappear. But on the other hand all those new apartment buildings that go up are a big improvment over the horrible late soviet style stuff that one can find everywhere in the city.
here here.
This is a sign of something else which really worries me about Armenia these days. The intellectual capital - the very people who would walk amongst these sidewalks, are gone. They are in France, USA, Russia - you name it. Now we are left with a majority of louts who do nothing more than smoke and watch woman on the sidewalks.Yes, its a sign of poverty and difficult times, but it's no excuse to spit on something that people worked so hard to build.
I am growing slowly more and more tired of this country and what it stands for.
Sorry if this offends any one!
Progress unfortunately comes at a cost... it should be clear that in 95% of the cases, it's shacks that are being destroyed with no historical value... however, in some cases, some "historic" (to be verified) buildings are also victims of the construction frenzy. We shouldn't be alarmist s in saying that destruction is made left and right without consideration of history.
I have the last 4 summers in Yerevan with a lot of trips in between to be capable of judging what has happened... And I am not writing these lines as a "tourist", but rather as an "on-and-off" resident of Yerevan.
Progress unfortunately comes at a cost... it should be clear that in 95% of the cases, it's shacks that are being destroyed with no historical value... however, in some cases, some "historic" (to be verified) buildings are also victims of the construction frenzy. We shouldn't be alarmists in saying that destruction is made left and right without consideration of history... Also, the real historical value of buildings torn is yet to be shown to Yerevantsis.
I am for the full cleaning up of the shacks that give Yerevan the look of a village vs a true international city... when are we going to get rid of this "village" mentality and start acting like real citizens of the world? Today, it's that village mentality which is the biggest hurdle to progress in Armenia...
Thanks.
Magnificent post.
You could also add, however, that this "new development" is not only sometimes illegal, but it also involves the violation of human rights and the Constitution.
Well done. Great, great post.
Incidently, almost all educated people in Yerevan will tell you that what Lara laments is EXACTLY because of the "village mentality" that the other anonymous talks about.
True progress, culture, and sophistication does not come in the form of some ugly buildings that violate the law and planning regulations.
It comes from something far more important and it is precisely that which Lara is calling for to come back.
Though I agree with preserving nice buildings, I think the city needs to have a balance of old and new. Many buildings of the old landscape were too soviet. It was embarassing showing Yerevan with that old youth center to foreigners and saying, "This is Armenia".
But showing Northern Avenue for example gives a much better image of a country in the modern age.
Next thing that needs to go are those ugly Ladas and Nivas. I always get embarassed when people see those cars in pictures. It's hard to show those, when your trying to rave about how great Armenia is.
sorry anonymous, you are absolutely wrong.
Even if most of the houses which are destroyed have "no special value" the complex of all of them is the value.
You may not know that houses all together form a "complex" which is unique.
Also the measure is important.
The houses which are missing now had human measure, the new buildings are absolutely faceless, have nothing to do with Yerevan.
Maybe you are trying to follow other cities' mistakes (Potsdamer Platz in Berlin for example: only buildings, no life...)
have a look here, what I photographed last sunday:
http://www.photografitti.de/index.php?showimage=660
There is a loss!
I am going to write an article on the "loss of face" in Yerevan, becoming more and more artificial and by this inhuman, following the money, not the people
excuse me for writing this as a foreigner, but I love Armenia very much, maybe more than your busy money-makers there...
Connie in Hamburg
http://www.terterian.org
http://www.avantart.com
Me again, the "on-and-off" resident of Yerevan...
The loss mentioned in this blog is all the soviet-era years which kept Yerevan in a "village" state... It's people who bring life to streets and buildings... and with the reconstructed Yerevan, people will be happy, but then again, Armenians are the most-pessimistic, anti-renewal people there are in the planet! How many times have you heard the infamous "bedke chi" when asking people to make minimal changes to their buildings or houses... then what do you expect when entire streets or neighbourhoods are demolished and new structures are constructed? When Armenians start having more open-minded and positive attitudes to change, then what's happening in Yerevan will seem very little to what really needs to be done! Do not understand me wrong... I am totally for the protection of rights and property from the "sharks" which are circling the center of Yerevan... however, we should all agree that the "renewal" of Yerevan is long overdue!... We should not accept people living in "varakhas" in the capital of Armenia! Those same people have money to buy BMWs or M-Benzes, however when it comes to their houses they still live as if in the middle-ages! That's the type of "village" mentality Yerevan does not need! And let's keep Tamanian out of this, as his "dream" was a good solution 80 years ago, however it does not reflect today's reality!
"Next thing that needs to go are those ugly Ladas and Nivas. I always get embarassed when people see those cars in pictures. It's hard to show those, when your trying to rave about how great Armenia is."
I'm very sorry, but I think trying to rid the city of its past isn't the direction we need to go in. Personally, I love seeing nivas and older cars around yerevan. Its how it was when I was growing up. Why should we fall into the typical and try to look new and shiney? If when trying to 'rave' about how great armenia is, you need to use the brand of cars that are driven there as a point in your discussion, then you've got some research to do, or you're attempting to advertise the city purely superficially, as if theres nothing beneath the surface. I don't think its a big deal, youre thinking way too much into it if it embarrasses you. I hate the notion of having to candy-coat everything and optimize the country to be able to draw in more tourists and squeeze more money out of them. I could go on forever with this rant. And also, the soviet architecture is another thing that I don't think we need to get rid of completely. It gives the city its character and feel. History should not be forgotten, architecturally or otherwise.
Actually, Bauhaus came after Art Deco and LeCorbusier would have thought that even the buildings on Northern Boulevard are too ornate. Despite these misplaced references, there are some valid points here. Clearly, there is an attempt by some with money and power (and their not-so-educated executioners) to impose upon Yerevan a vision acquired during some limited trips to Glendale and to replicate the architectural attrocities being committed in Moscow by their Russian counterparts (and themselves in some cases).
The problem is not only with the Armenian nouveau riche and their seemingly crude understanding of asthetics. It is also a problem of those who carry out these projects. That means especially those who are involved in actually designing these exposure. Their is intellectual ability in Armenia but not the means to train it properly. The result is misguided money and energy.
Yerevan is a city of the 20th Century. Yes there are (or, unfortunately, were) some fine examples of Tsarist colonial architecture but Paris it is not (nor was it ever). Its age is a technicality. It has never been a significant Armenian urban center. It is useless to compare it to any historic European 1st or 2nd tier city (or even other historic Armenian cities).
The problem is that while Tamanian and most other accomplished members of the late 19th Century early 20th Century Armenian intelligentsia were able to create an Armenian vision by harmonizing traditional Armenian elements with the intellectual/artistic currents of their time, today's artistic
Yerevan is not (nor never was) like Paris. It is not even like a second tier historic European city. Despite some (now disapearing) fine examples of Tsarist colonial architecture and some (long gone) Persian structures, Yerevan is a 20th Century city. It is partly an architectural manifestation of the Armenian national rebirth which started in the 19th Century and created such nationalist artists as Tamanian and it is partially the embodiment of Soviet architectural ideals. Now, there is an additional layer of globalized architecture being added. Some of this new architecture is non-descript while some makes an attempt (usually unsuccessfully) of melding traditional Armenian elements to what are perceived to be the new forms.
While it may be argued that the methods employed in condemning the hovels of central Yerevan were not appropriate (condemnation is not pretty in the West either), the true problem here is not new development. The problem is the crude asthetic which resides in Armenia. Armenia, like others, has always acheived cultural success when exposed to mainstream currents in the arts. Unfortunately, Armenia is currently intellectually isolated. That is not too say that there is not incredible talent in Armenia. The level of raw genius is astounding. The main issue is one of exposure. The Armenian intellectual leaders of the 19th Century were very much aware of artistic movements dominating Europe and gave Armenian art, thought, etc. a contemporary prowess. The same could be said for the great minds of the Soviet era. Unfortunately, the power to create in Armenia is currently in the hands of those with little appreciation for outside artistic thought (ie, any ideas beyond the dashboard of their Mercedes). They take a few trips to Glendale and beleive that the office park architecture and car culture are what is appropriate for Yerevan. Or, they repeat the urban attrocities being committed in Moscow.
Moreover, those who carry out the wishes of these new princes are not aware of global artistic (or historical) currents and create, at best, boring edifices. Education is the problem. Real estate is fungible. Today's slum is tomorrow's paradise and vice versa. That is the story of cities. The question is who will change the landscape - the fool or the thinker?
P.S. - Bauhaus came after Art Deco and, if alive, LeCorbusier would probably consider the buildings on Northern Boulevard too ornate :)
I am all for preserving our old architecture, the beautiful Soviet architecture. I can't stand when people say how ugly Soviet era architecture is. Basically that means that the Opera, Republic Square, Parliament, Cascade (all built in the Soviet era) are all garbage.
Northern Avenue replaced torn down shacks, not beautiful, characteristically rich buildings, but SHACKS. The couple of buildings that have already gone up are not beautiful, but decent enough not to complain toooooo much. I see another couple going up right now that honestly look much nicer, not as flat, but with more character. The issue of residents being kicked out are another topic.
The Youth Palace was torn down and I am 100% happy about that because it was a major eyesore in my opinion. I hope the hotel which will replace it soon will be more appealing. And I'm quite sure it will be.
The 2-3 floor old Yerevan buildings on Abovyan (and the other couple of streets) have been brought down piece by piece. Bricks have been numbered one by one and then carefully taken down. I actually know a couple of buildings that were built later using the facades of old Yerevan buildings and they look great.
We act as if people come and just smash these old buildings to pieces. THEY DONT! Let's also keep in mind that we are talking about 100+ year old buildings that have not been maintained. Most of these old beautiful buildings are falling apart inside. I doubt their foundations are comparable to European buildings. We cry over old beautiful buildings being destroyed but most of the time what we mean are their facades.
I really do hope that the city does build the so-called old Yerevan project real soon, and hopefully this is not all talk.
By the way, the image http://www.photografitti.de/index.php?showimage=660 is an old (excuse my French) whore-house which is in terrible shape. It’s one of the most beautiful facades I’ve ever scene in Yerevan, but really does need to be brought down and put together again sooner or later.
interesting comments from everyone... Lara, it is, of course, very sad... we have even more serious problems in Armenia... for some reason, everyone automatically thinks about or simply refers to Yerevan only when speaking about Armenia... go to regions, especially villages, see how pathetic everything is... H1 was showing a village the other day near turkish border, with ONLY two families left... i don't know where we are going with architecture and life in general, but i am still hoping for the best...
Haik,
I just can’t agree with you on those Ladas. There is nothing nice about them. They’re not at least even like Havana’s beautiful old cars.
I do agree with your point that we shouldn’t be obsessed about sugar coating everything to the point that we build a totally plastic façade; however, I need to reiterate that my point is not to have everything new, but rather to have a balance in the city that boasts variety. For example... a business sector, a modern trendy section, old Yerevan, soviet Yerevan, etc.. This is the nation’s capital for Pete’s sake. Let's beef it up.
People get on Armenians’ case about being showy, but I don’t think that there is anything wrong with putting on a good face when going out in public. It makes for a pleasant city. I mean damn, have you ever been to Italy? Italian mainstream loves fashion and being charming toward others. Does that make Italian people shallow? I don’t think so, I think it just means that...they love fashion and being charming toward others. And indeed, it makes for great city living and nice outings.
In my opinion, there’s nothing wrong with café culture, nice clothes and the sweet life.
Stalinist apartment buildings and Ladas are not that. They’re just gross, embarrassing and third worldly.
unfortunately the discussion here goes all about aesthetics, but you forget urbanism, which means life in a city
and these glass-palaces are dead, urbanistically dead.
thanks for the info that this house was a whorehouse, I did not know. But for sure it is one of the best facades you had in Erevan ;=)
Connie
If all Armenians were so educated, sensitive and proud of their own heritage as non-Armenian Connie is, Armenia would be in a much better place...
The problem is shallowness and the lack of acquired taste in decision-making Armenians (and/or forfeiture of their principles for money, as was well depicted in Tokhatian's "Mea Culpa").
The root problem is that culture/civility/'kirt linela' is disappearing........
I think most of the people who commented didn’t look at Connie's photo and don’t know what is being replaced with what.
There are two types of building that are being "cleaned up": Shacks that can be found behind the high road building and the old nice buildings that have nice facades ( as the one in Connie's photo).
I am for the shacks being cleaned up but I think that the nice old buildings should have been renovated and preserved as the one which is now SIL Plaza on Abovia.
As to come to the legality and quality of the new constructions: they are not legal as many people are forced out against their will and they are not safe and secure as they are not fit for the earthquake zone. N Avenue sidewalk already cracks, the buildings are too tall, most of the foundations are dig too deep as they are underground waters/rivers which by time will become problem. basic infrastructure has not been considered thoroughly: Are there sufficient emergency exists, fire fighting infrastructure, will the current sewage and pipelines support the new structures, will already congested roads and transport system be able to cope with the new residents and works of the buildings, There are not parks and trees to clean the surrounding air ? Most of those new buildings are already ugly and architecturally outdated I don’t consider them modern.
We will see them after 10 years. That glass building on Terian and N. Avenue already resembles an old soviet factory. It is also interesting that who will take the burden if the government changes and the violators caught and punished. Probably the new owners will also be persecuted as they knowingly become support in crime and criminals.
Walking around the construction areas off one of the streets from Abovian, we ended up talking to this woman who was being bought out of her apartment (for a measily $5000 mind you) so that it could be torn down and replaced with a building in which each suite will cost ~$80,000... What are thousands of people like this supposed to do with their $5000 is what I don't understand. I agree with the replacement of some of what is behind the facade on abovian and even across from the opera was falling apart, and no one was living there in the first place. But I wish the architectures used on these projects would look around them and use the style in place as well as history as inspiration, instead of just blatantly aiming for a 'euro' look, or however you want to title some of the harsh coffin-like buildings.
As far as the ladas are concerned, I don't think its that big of an issue. Like I said, if something like that embarrasses you, then you need to re-assess your relationship/love with the city. I love it for what it is, not what it should/could be, and honestly, how Yerevan "looks" to outsiders/tourists isn't a big concern with me. To them it's just another place. Sure this attitude might result in less tourism, etc., but this place is a home to me and it's a sensitive subject because of that ;)
I made a mistake, not Terian but Tumanian and N. Avenue. the photo of that Soviet factory buildin can be found here:
http://www.armeniadiaspora.com/gallery/yerevan/jun15/images/DSC_0072.jpg
try to imagine after the building is a littel bit dirty?
Haik,
I totally agree with the first point.
The second point could turn into a slippery slope of stagnation. There is always room for improvement. Part of being "Western" means that your society evolves and pushes forward with designs and technology. Cars are one of those areas. It's not a good idea to cling on to the past.
This car business isn't a huge deal for me, but I just don't think that in armenia, or elsewhere in the world, people in the right mind need to worry about what kind of cars they have in their nation and what it represents. People who actually use the cars for what they are simply use it to get from point A to point B, then there are of course those who parade around in their Hummers or BMWs and drive 10M from one cafe to another so they can show off their new sound system in the process. I'd rather side with the first type of person I described, and as a society I'd like to see less importance put on what brand the car is or how stylish/sleek is. Fact is, Yerevan is a city where its easy to live without a car, I'd say its even a pleasure to do so. Those who drive because they need to can usually barely afford the next tank of gas, so I don't hold it against people for not getting rid of older cars.. As I said, it's not that important to me, there are far worse things going on then this topic at hand heh..
Whoops, that previous comment was by me^
wasp, it looks like a generic modern office building in a tech park (usually next to an interstate highway). it looks nothing like an old Soviet factory.
The tuf exterior will eventually turn to a dirty pink/gray color. The remedy is to use a power washer or sand it.
The entire city needs to be power washed. You know how beautiful everythign will look once that's done?
Progress indeed comes at a price, but we should make all attempts at preservation...soviet era or not, its a part of a whole two to three generations of our people...we should practice better judgment when destroying some buildings and if only for the betterment of life and dndesakan circumstances should completely destroy and rebuild others...though always respecting the environment its being built in, respecting the architecture & natural settings around it, hopefully erecting buildings that overall complement one another, not stick out like sore thumbs and in fact demean the overall landscape of Yerevan and the cities that surround it. The most efficient and economic attempts at construction are feasible yes. But feasible isn’t necessarily ideal, isn’t always beautiful. This is a city, a metropolis that houses an ancient culture and our peoples history and these buildings should reflect that or try to pay homage to that or in its most basic sense, consider that they will be around for a long long time and will reflect the characters of current and upcoming generations in this new republic of ours, who will be the ones responsible for having revived Armenia.
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