Tuesday, February 15, 2005

I previously decided not to log too much about my stay in Lebanon, because this is an Armenia-related log and there wasn't too much Armenia-related stuff to log about. However, I will write down some of my impressions, because several people told me they'd be interested in them.

It was my first visit to Lebanon, though not my first visit to the region, I had been to Israel before. I found Lebanon a very interesting country, with lots of variety in people and landscape in a very small area (the country is about 210 kms north-south and about 80 east-west, if I am not mistaken, and is divided by north-south mountain ranges). Lots of interesting history as well, ranging from ancient (there are many large and small archaeological sites everywhere) to contemporary (the recent civil war).

The country has recovered amazingly from the 15-year long civil war that ended in 1990. Traces are definitely still visible, ranging from demolished buildings in downtown Beirut, to bullet holes in many buildings, to unexploded rockets sticking out of the walls of the Crusader fortress in Lebanon's second largest city Tripoli. But downtown Beirut (which used to be a frontline during the war) now generally has a glitzy, rich look with lots of expensive hotels, shops and expensive cars driving around (and I don't mean the usual latest models Mercedes and BMW, but Ferrari's and Lamborghini's). I also noticed many visitors from other Middle-Eastern countries. I guess after 9/11 and the growing visa restrictions for people from Arab countries, the place has become a nice alternative to Europe and the US.

Each of the three major population groups forms the majority in a certain part of the country. The christians mainly live in East-Beirut and the coastal area north of the capital up to Tripoli in the north. The Druze inhabit the mountains south(-east) of Beirut. The muslems are the largest group overall and they are a majority in the south, east and far north (Tripoli and beyond). The differences between the areas are striking. The christian part is noticeably the richest part of the country, whereas the muslem areas are visibly poorer. The Druze area is the cleanest...I am not kidding! Like Armenians, the Lebanes lack "environmental awareness": they just throw everything on the streets or worse, leave it on the beach or in the mountains. But not in the Druze area: there you will see lots garbage-bins lining the streets and little or no garabage on the streets.

As to the country's political situation, a lot is happening at the moment. Obviously, there was yesterday's assasination of former premier Rafik Hariri, which only contributes to the atmosphere already heating up because of upcoming parliamentary elections in May. Politics in Lebanon is largely based on ethnicity/religion. Also, opposition against the presence of Syrian troops in Lebanon and against the huge influence of neighboring Syria in Lebanese politics and decision-making is now being voiced more openly and more loudly than ever before. Syrian troops have been present in / have occupied Lebanon (choose one, according to your political views...;-) ) for about three decades and Syria basically controls Lebanese politics and the government's decision-making process. However, Syrian troops have apparently not too long ago left most of the coastal area, though they are still very much present on the other side of the mountains, in the Beka'a Valley. During our trips, we encountered a Syrian military checkpoint only once, guarding a big mosque in Tripoli. There used to be many Syrian military checkpoints everywhere until a couple of years ago.

There is lots more to tell, but I guess this is it for now.

Friday, February 11, 2005

I returned to Yerevan yesterday morning very early, but I carried a big fat cold in my luggage, so all I have done since is sleep and blow my nose and drink lots of tea. I just wanted to get out of the house for a little while so I decided to check my mail at the internet club across the street. But I am going back to my nice, warm home now!
By the way, I promise I will resume regular posting again from now on. ;-)