Beach weather...
I spent the day at the beach today, but that's because I'm in Barcelona, not Yerevan. Barcelona's a city which I've been wanting to see for ages, and it is cool, and I can imagine it is fantastic during beach season, but overall I am a bit disappointed I guess. I quite like it, don't get me wrong. La Rambla (the famous pedestrian avenue), the gothic quarter, the Gaudi (my favorite) architecture... but I just expected a lot more in the architecture... there really isn't that much of Gaudi's stuff to see. He spent the last 12 years of his life working on (and fundraising for) a cathedral that never was finished. The government is still collecting money to complete it, as if they can't afford to do it themselves, and the newer sections look much plainer and non-organic (I'd almost say Soviet) in comparison to the Gaudi sections. So it seems the Spanish can get it wrong, too.
Meanwhile, the prices have been a shock to my system, which is accustomed to Yerevan, and last summer Eastern Europe and Georgia. Things easily cost 5 to 10 times more... the other shock was the amount of petty theft, something I was warned about. Nevertheless, for the first time in my life, they managed to steal from me, and I saw and heard about it happening to a few others firsthand. The govt/police don't really seem to care much at all.
Another interesting thing is that they have a very different dialect of Spanish here - Catalonian. They even have almost everything written in both dialects, it's quite interesting. But I am happy to see that I can still communicate in Spanish when I have to - though terribly.
In the Armenian department, there is little here. A few Armenians from Hayastan are here and working - some even making delicious tapas (mezze like meals), but don't know that there is more to it than that. Also a Russian grocery store sells Armenian cognac in sword shaped bottles.... good stuff! I am dropping of copies of Rediscovering Armenia at some local hostels for their borrowing shelves, like I did all over E. Europe. Give folks some ideas for their next trips... if anyone coming through Yerevan would want to take some to hostels in their hometowns, let me know.
I'm sure there is a lot more I could share, but can't remember. So that's it for now. Oh, and tomorrow doesn't look like beach weather :-(
Meanwhile, the prices have been a shock to my system, which is accustomed to Yerevan, and last summer Eastern Europe and Georgia. Things easily cost 5 to 10 times more... the other shock was the amount of petty theft, something I was warned about. Nevertheless, for the first time in my life, they managed to steal from me, and I saw and heard about it happening to a few others firsthand. The govt/police don't really seem to care much at all.
Another interesting thing is that they have a very different dialect of Spanish here - Catalonian. They even have almost everything written in both dialects, it's quite interesting. But I am happy to see that I can still communicate in Spanish when I have to - though terribly.
In the Armenian department, there is little here. A few Armenians from Hayastan are here and working - some even making delicious tapas (mezze like meals), but don't know that there is more to it than that. Also a Russian grocery store sells Armenian cognac in sword shaped bottles.... good stuff! I am dropping of copies of Rediscovering Armenia at some local hostels for their borrowing shelves, like I did all over E. Europe. Give folks some ideas for their next trips... if anyone coming through Yerevan would want to take some to hostels in their hometowns, let me know.
I'm sure there is a lot more I could share, but can't remember. So that's it for now. Oh, and tomorrow doesn't look like beach weather :-(
posted by Raffi K. at 8:18 PM
13 Comments:
I'm surprised to hear you discribe Catalan as a 'different dialect'. Coming from Armeina I would have expected you to be in tune with national and linguistic differences. Your attitude reminds me of the condecension shown by Russians during Tsarist and Soviet times.
There are many Catalans who would dearly like their country to have the same independent status as Armenia and are even jealous of your status. Catalonia and Armenia are both small countries which have been denied their independence and had their identity and language surpressed at different times of their history.
Otherwise, I enjoy your blog and would like to visit Armenia.
Sion
Aberystwyth, Wales
www.blogiadur.com
That's a bit harsh just for calling it a dialect... I highly doubt the difference is greater than between Eastern and Western Armenian, or to go a step further am sure it is no more different than Western Armenian and Karabakhtsi Armenian! Doesn't mean I don't think they shuold have independence if they feel like it. Even if they spoke exactly the same as folks in Madrid...
Incidentally I found out that the reason for all the petty theft is that there is absolutely no punishment for stealing things worth "only" a few hundred dollars, as long as no force/threat is used...
I will certainly not return to Barcelona as long as that hasn't been fixed. I have again and again seen the same thing happen around me, it's ridiculous.
Hey Raffi,
Catalan is not a dialect of Spanish, it is a different language. They are different from each other, though not as different as Basque and Spanish.
Speaking Spanish doesn't mean you can speak or even understand Catalan. I can speak Spanish and even lived in Spain, but can't speak or understand any Catalan.
As for them gaining independence, this is a completely absurd idea since 1.) they could never survive on their own, and 2.) they already have almost complete autonomy in regards to language, culture, voting for local politicians, etc.
Well I have checked Wikipedia (not having any expertise in this matter) and see that indeed it is a language. Of course that makes me wonder if Karabakhtsi Armenian would qualify as well.
As for independence being absurd it is no more absurd than so many countries on this planet that make no sense at all (quite arbitrary borders) and CERTAINLY could survive on it's own!! Come on. Saying it couldn't is rather absurd... the tourists are tripping over one another here and quite frankly just about any territory can survive on its own.
As for th autonomy vs. independence, that is up to them and autonomy seems to be keeping almost everyone happy, so I think it is working fine... all I said is that IF they wanted it then they should have it. :-)
Cataluna has a very good situation now....they get to keep their language, culture, customs, vote on laws in the region, vote on local politicians, etc.
But it seems some people in the region aren't satisfied with that.
It doesn't matter how many tourists there are in the region, or that Cataluna is a very important financial centre in Spain and indeed, in Europe.
What you forget is, the Spanish government in Madrid heavily subsidises Cataluna and the region would fall apart if not for the support of the central government in Madrid.
So no, they cannot survive on their own, and even if they could, they'd be taking a drastic drop in standard of living.
Cataluna (and Pais Vasco as well) need Madrid, and its support.
But, I have to admit something - if I had another chance in Spain, I'd live in Barcelona, not Madrid !
I'm surprised you weren't that impressed by the architecture, I found Barca to be one of the most beautiful big cities in the world.
Arin, your claims are absolutely incorrect. Catalunya is the most prosperous and economically developed part of Spain. And it is NOT subsidized by the Madrid goevernment. Quite the opposite. So why can't it survive on its own?...
You're right, Cataluna is very prosperous and is also a major financial hub. I never denied this, did I?
However, yes, it is still subsidised by Madrid, in fact, every region to a certain extent is subsidised by Madrid !
The last time I checked, Cataluna was still part of Spain! It is not its own country, and people still pay taxes to the central government and in turn receive funding and services, health care, etc.
So how can you say Madrid does not subsidise Cataluna?
Deep down inside every Catalan person knows they are better off with the backing of Madrid....they will tell you otherwise, because of pride, but the fact of the matter is, they need Madrid's support.
Arin, it is NOT a subsidy when you send money to a place, and they send it back in the form of govt. services! You could just keep the money in the first place.
The debate about language v dialect is avalid one. As I believe Rilke the German philospher said, 'a language is a dialect with gunships'. And I understand the point that some speaches are considered languages and other dialects - the case is especially true in Romance languages, the Scandinavian ones and others e.g. Macedonian v Bulgarian or Czech v Slovak I'm sure. In the end I think unless the division has been fostered by a colonial power (Romanian and Moldovan?) then one just has to accept the decision of a community on how they want to describe their speech.
As far as Catalonia being unable to support itself were it to become independent. This is total nonsense. If any stateless European nation could make it as an independent nation (which doesn't mean becoming a hermit state as Armenia knows) then Catalonia could. Catralnoia is by far in a more developed situation economically and in terms of infrastructure than Armenia or any Soviet satelite state was in 1991. Reading the history books every nation which has campaigned for independence has had people saying they couldn't afford it. It's almost comic how often this myth is used. No doubt the British used it against the 13 Colonies, the Soviets against the Armenians in 1991, the Swedes against the Norwegians in 1905 etc. Sometime a nation just has to learn to swim and stop depending on others. Catalonia's proplem with independence isn't that it couldn't afford it but that one of internal will and also that the Spanish state will not allow it - so much for democracy.
For many in Western Europe, like myself and people I know in Catalonia, nations like Armenia aren't obscure micro states cluttering world maps, but (for all their problems and difficulties) beacons of hope. Hope that languages which have been discriminated against or which are not world languages can flourish, hope that a nation can gain the dignity and self-confidence to have its own institutions from Parliaments to Olympic teams - institutions which legitimise and normalise their identity and community. Acheiving economic prosperity is considerably easier than achieving the normalisation of your language and nationality.
In a generation Armenia and the other ex-Soviet states will be prosperous and their identities secure and recognised ... I'm not sure what the fate of stateless nations in Western Europe, like Catalonia, the Basque Country, Wales or Scotland, will be.
Sion Jobbins
Aberystwyth, Wales
www.blogiadur.com
Dear Raffi,
I was not just talking about taxes and other such things, but a general flow of money from Madrid to Cataluna. Sure, Cataluna contributes a lot to Madrid, but the reverse is also true.
Both sides benefit greatly from the relationship.
And dear Sion, I respect your point of view, but I disagree on certain points. You brought up languages being discriminated against.
As far as I know, Catalan people have full use of their language in their cities, schools, public offices, companies, etc.
No one in Madrid now prevents them from doing so.
Yes, Franco tried to prevent it but that was a long time ago - now Spain is a fantastic democracy, not perfect, but in my opinion has the world's greatest leader.
I suppose I should have been clearer and said that in THEORY, yes, any country/region could become independent, but would that be better for them?
Catalan people have to ask themselves if they would be better off in the long run than they are now - the answer is no, and is reflected in most Catalan people's decision to not separate from Spain.
But, funny enough, recently there has been talk about granting greater autonomy to the region!
We'll see what happens with that.....but I still believe Cataluna should remain a part of Spain.
Check out http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/world/europe/4398702.stm for the recent developments re Catalonia.
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