Georgia
So here is my assessment of the trip I was on, let the commenting begin!
Tblisi
The good: Very nice pre-Soviet architecture which would be at home in Krakow or Budapest, with some Caucasian touches, plus a river and nice hills. Great (and cheap) sulphur bathes right next to the Armenian church.
The bad: HUMID! CRIME! Yes, the humidity was brutal, and you had a hard time staying dry. And after all the crime stories I'd heard, I get there to find a young Japanese guy staying at the same place as me had been attacked by two big guys bashing him with stones to rob him. Also must say (though I might be biased) there was not a lot of love at all for the Armenians there. Whenever I introduced myself, I was automatically American, not Armenian, just like the Armenians in Georgia were being convinced they are Georgian, not Armenian. This might not be something other tourists would pick up on, but as an Armenian I was paying close attention, talking to many Georgians and Georgian-Armenians and that was my take.
Other than that it was just in general interesting to observe the differences/similiarities. They really have one main drag, with no other street seeming to come close to it. The had McDonalds and a decent English bookstore. They were renovating many old building incredibly well, and even giving some Soviet buildings a face lift. Lots of construction and infrastructural work. Cops were in general better, though at the border I did see some suspect behavior.
Batumi
Again, some nice architecture in this small city, a lot of renovation and infrastructure work, and unbelievable humidity. It was rainy most of the time (it is subtropical after all), but it was still easy to walk around a lot, see some sites close-by, and meet some of the local Armenians. Many of the Armenians have lost their language skills, but their church was recently renovated and reopened, hopefully breathing new life into the community. There was a huge botanical garden nearby, where I bought some young hardy kiwi plants that will survive in Armenia. These will compliment the ones I've grown from seed. I gave a couple away in Lori Marz, and if anyone knows someone in Armenia/Karabakh who has a nice garden and would enjoy such a plant, let me know.
My New Yerevan Tourism Theory
So having now seen a fair number of Eastern European cities, from Tblisi to Zagreb to Krakow, and talking to many travellers, this is my decision on how to market Yerevan... as having fantastic SOVIET ARCHITECTURE! Yes, I know some people will say it's crazy, but that's what we have, and that's what is unique and cool for a tourist. We can never come close to the old architecture of any of these cities, but they can never match our city's Soviet heritage, much of which is extremely nice. From Republic Square and Opera, to Sasuntsi Davit train station and the Hamalir Complex, we have loads of cool Soviet buildings, and we need to revel in it. We need to preserve it, highlight it, advertise it, and show people what "good Soviet" can mean. I heard a few people say that they couldn't see much difference between Zagreb, Krakow or the others, and though that might be a slight exaggeration, it is true that the architecture in the entire region - including Tblisi - is quite similiar. What we have is something different, and not only that but Soviet, both of which are things that travellers love. We can build a small neighborhood of "old Yerevan" if we like sometime. We can market the regional architecture of Dilijan, Lori, Goris, Meghri, Shushi, Hadrut and other areas as well, but we should not feel ashamed of the Soviet, we should not automatically condemn it, but rather we should study it and revel in it!
Tblisi
The good: Very nice pre-Soviet architecture which would be at home in Krakow or Budapest, with some Caucasian touches, plus a river and nice hills. Great (and cheap) sulphur bathes right next to the Armenian church.
The bad: HUMID! CRIME! Yes, the humidity was brutal, and you had a hard time staying dry. And after all the crime stories I'd heard, I get there to find a young Japanese guy staying at the same place as me had been attacked by two big guys bashing him with stones to rob him. Also must say (though I might be biased) there was not a lot of love at all for the Armenians there. Whenever I introduced myself, I was automatically American, not Armenian, just like the Armenians in Georgia were being convinced they are Georgian, not Armenian. This might not be something other tourists would pick up on, but as an Armenian I was paying close attention, talking to many Georgians and Georgian-Armenians and that was my take.
Other than that it was just in general interesting to observe the differences/similiarities. They really have one main drag, with no other street seeming to come close to it. The had McDonalds and a decent English bookstore. They were renovating many old building incredibly well, and even giving some Soviet buildings a face lift. Lots of construction and infrastructural work. Cops were in general better, though at the border I did see some suspect behavior.
Batumi
Again, some nice architecture in this small city, a lot of renovation and infrastructure work, and unbelievable humidity. It was rainy most of the time (it is subtropical after all), but it was still easy to walk around a lot, see some sites close-by, and meet some of the local Armenians. Many of the Armenians have lost their language skills, but their church was recently renovated and reopened, hopefully breathing new life into the community. There was a huge botanical garden nearby, where I bought some young hardy kiwi plants that will survive in Armenia. These will compliment the ones I've grown from seed. I gave a couple away in Lori Marz, and if anyone knows someone in Armenia/Karabakh who has a nice garden and would enjoy such a plant, let me know.
My New Yerevan Tourism Theory
So having now seen a fair number of Eastern European cities, from Tblisi to Zagreb to Krakow, and talking to many travellers, this is my decision on how to market Yerevan... as having fantastic SOVIET ARCHITECTURE! Yes, I know some people will say it's crazy, but that's what we have, and that's what is unique and cool for a tourist. We can never come close to the old architecture of any of these cities, but they can never match our city's Soviet heritage, much of which is extremely nice. From Republic Square and Opera, to Sasuntsi Davit train station and the Hamalir Complex, we have loads of cool Soviet buildings, and we need to revel in it. We need to preserve it, highlight it, advertise it, and show people what "good Soviet" can mean. I heard a few people say that they couldn't see much difference between Zagreb, Krakow or the others, and though that might be a slight exaggeration, it is true that the architecture in the entire region - including Tblisi - is quite similiar. What we have is something different, and not only that but Soviet, both of which are things that travellers love. We can build a small neighborhood of "old Yerevan" if we like sometime. We can market the regional architecture of Dilijan, Lori, Goris, Meghri, Shushi, Hadrut and other areas as well, but we should not feel ashamed of the Soviet, we should not automatically condemn it, but rather we should study it and revel in it!

18 Comments:
Raff, the ciy has already planned to use the area between Byuzand and Arami streets to make an old Yerevan. The plan is to take the facades of old Yerevan buildings (which have been torn down to build really boring and ugly new residential buildings) and to build an area where people can see what old Yerevan used to look like (since there's really nothing left anymore.) I can’t understand why they didn’t just use this idea on an existing street, such as Abovyan.
What's wrong with Soviet Architecture? I don't understand why people are so disgusted with it. Sure there are a few unattractive buildings in our city, but Republic Square is beautiful; Cascade is an awesome structure (and will be even more when the new museum is built); and so are many other buildings. Plus our tuff stone makes our city (and country) very unique.
One big difference I noticed between Yereven and Tbilisi are the bigger structures we have, ie. Cascade, the Square, Opera, etc.
I've always loved the soviet stuff in Armenia..Yerevan has the feel of a city that was certainly well "planned", and everything is made to have an impact, be it good/bad/ whatever. The square is amazing, I love it..and Hamalir, if that was renovated ( I understand its been privatised and not much is ever done to it, which is a waste) could relaly be something special, perhaps an ice rink, concert hall, with some really nice gardens, the basic stuff is there from before...
The train station is a waste, and the area around it very desolate .. I popped in once and it was pretty shocking to see the train timetable still the same as ten/fifteen years ago....I was told it was shut and asked to have a look around..the lady said 2 trains came a day.
I also really like the metro stations..my favourite is Marshal Baghramian..from the outside it looks great with the glass facade, and the fountain underneath the Square one is great too..I wonder if there are any plans to sort these out in the future?
But yea, Raffi I think thats definitely the way they should go..lets face it..the structures going up now are not impressive particularly...when you look at places like Hamalir..
A friend of my fathers has a factory in Ashtarak next to a disused military spy place..the huge satellite antennas have always fascinated me as well..be great for school trips etc.
I have pictures if anyone wants to see:)
ps do you have any pics from tblisi?
Sure Harmik post the pics it's always nice to see Armenia's sites. Especially becuase I've heard so much about so many of them but seen so few.
Actually it would be great if all you guys in Yerevan could post more pics.
It's really nice to log on every couple of days and get updates, but would be even better if we had some visuals.
Although, I don't think I'd have the patience to actually try and upload anything using YErevan's Internet connections!
I will log some pics, but yes, it is a pain! Harmick, send me an email if you would... I don't have your address handy.
Soviet chic... people dig it.
I like Bagramyan too Harmick... inside it feels so cold and solid!
I'm also fond of the Republic Square station, with its openings that bring in a little light as you're leaving the station.
Anyone been to Moscow's metro stations? Now, that is something impressive!
Impressive.... possibly, Gaudy.... Definately! Yerevan's underground is much more understated and striking.
Would love to agree with you guys on the marketable aspects of Soviet Architechture but I really don't think that any tourist, given a choice of the fabulous Bohemian architecture of Prague and the Soviet bland style of Yerevan, would choose Yerevan unless of course they were Diaspora Armenian!
anna, i think you might be surprised..
im a student and i know theres a massive interest especially among people of my age to learn more about the soviet empire, the way of doing things etc... I think Armenia has the potential for alot of university student tourism programmes to be run ..mainly because its one of the safest ex soviet states that still has that "look" about it...
Harmik I'm a university student too and I can see your point about people our age wanting to experiece new things and perhaps deciding an "off the beatten track" destination like armenia is an attractive alternative to the increasingly commercialised former Easter Block. However, as far as tourists in general go, and i was talking about these in my original blog, Armenia and it's architecture just isn't attractive enough to compete with other countries.
Don't get me wrong I love Armenia and am very proud of all things Armenian but I'm just being realistic in saying that to really sell Armenia to an average tourist it's gonna have to have a lot more than just Soviet Architecture.
I agree wtih Harmick, there is definitely an interest in the CCCP (specifically by outsiders), which can become a big fad in the future. We should take advantage of that.
By the way Anna, I doubt there are many people who would compare Yerevan's architecture to that of Prague. How could you compare the world's most architecturally beautiful city to ANY other city?
I think the presence of Soviet architecture in Armenia is a testament to the diverse historic eras our country has lived through. It's all there represented in the structures, Karni, Etchmiadzin, Republic Square...etc.
I like the current feel of the Sassountsi Tavit trainstation. It looks like it was frozen in time. I would however LOVE to see it fully operational in the future
offering train rides to Georgia, Artsakh (maybe I'm too optimistic)
I think more could be done at the metro stations, vernisage area and other parks by turning on the water fountains.
BUT what I've NEVER understood is what the hell the deal is with Zvartnots airport. What was the architect going for there? Was it inspired by Stark Trek and the Jetson's? (What's going to happen to it when the new airport is built?)
I have to say, I felt like I entered another world in another time when I went to that train station... and it was AWESOME! The way people spend time at the airport just watching people meet and greet, I could do that there if it were fully functioning.
Der Hova, it's utterly impossible to compare Prague's architecture with any other city, it has the most breathtaking buildings I've ever seen and could have happily spent a month walking around the city instead of the 5 days I had.
I wasn't necessarity comparing Yerevan to Prague but one ex Soviet Block country/city to another.
My point was that although admitedly there are people that would find some of the Soviet structures interesting these would not be great enough in numbers to establish Armenia as a tourist destination.
Having said all of this, I would love to be proven wrong and see our country become a popular destination for more than just diaspora armenians.
Totally agree about Zvarnots = Jetsons... :)
I must say, I think the airport, if well maintained would be absolutely awesome, the Cascades are great too. Yes, Yerevan would not be a Prague, but once you've seen Prague, all those other cities I listed rather pale in comparison - since it is the same style and period of architecture. Yerevan though is unique in that sense. And don't forget - I am saying that YEREVAN should be marketed as cool Soviet, not all of Armenia. The rest of Armenia has totally different things to offer...
What about including Tbilisi for sightseeing alongside with Sevan, Garni, Karabach, Zangezur, Dilijan, etc. It would not hurt at all.
I had a long, early hours of morning discussion with a friend about how long it would take before we saw the train station running anything like a normal train station....we came up with 25 years?
Perhaps when there is a need to commute, and it becomes cost effective to run trains to major cities etc people could start using it as a reliable mode of transport.
The airport will become a casino(entertainment complex!) apparently...although I agree with Raffi..it has potential. I always thought that perhaps if they clad it with the silver-grey panels used a lot today, and sorted out some ambient lighting, it could really be impressive...as it stands..it is absolutely unique..like a small mini world that you cant see out of . Maybe its to hide Armenia from the tourists until they get out and think...damn..we should have gone to Bulgaria:)
Personally, I'm a fan of how Hayastantsis solve problems. One example would be how the airport solved its "people peering into the baggage claim area/scaring travlers" problem by painting the windows white. It looks like the fake snow retail stores put on their windows at Christmas time : )
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