I haven’t returned to Gyumri in 8 years. That was my first visit to Armenia. Through a sister-city exchange program, I traveled to Gyumri for two weeks during the miserable times of 1994 at the age of 16. I suppose I’ve always had a fear that it would look exactly the same as it did 8 years ago… buildings still crumbling, domigs everywhere, no improvement whatsoever. I guess I was wrong for the most part. Yes, people are still living in domigs, there is still rubble, but you need to look for it to find it. International organizations seem to have done a good job covering it up, I guess. I don’t know what lies beneath the flashy construction and smiling faces, but it sure isn’t the same Gyumri I remember.

I’m slowly but surely preparing to return to the States… as I type this, I’m attempting to open Monster.com on the very slow internet that has been giving us problems all week. I already prepared my resume, have my apartment, as I logged before, and I’m receiving more e-mails from friends and family asking for a concrete date that I arrive to prepare festivities. All the while, I’m wondering how on earth I’m going to be able to finish a meal without a nice cup of Armenian soorj after my dinners. What on earth will I do at nights, as here I have grown so accustomed to dinner out every night with friends. The thought of watching TV at night frightens me.

But what a summer it has been. 6 months of ups and downs, truly finding a niche in Armenia. Laying out a foundation here seems to be the smartest thing I done, so now I have one foot in the door. A move to Armenia doesn’t seem so out of reach anymore.

I have named my friend Samuel the official “Repatriate Recruitment Agency,” but I think perhaps on my return to Armenia, I might begin the US branch to make sure I have people moving with me when I’m ready. Soon enough, Sam!

I'm in UK again. Already 10 days spent in Oxford and London. Leaving this afternoon. Last sunday went to Armenian church. The service was good, besides they had a new organist playing and he was a little bit nervous as well as both male and female soloists in the choir. I took a small number of my Armenia photos to the UK. Some of my british colleagues from DFID (British Department for International Development) really got interested and excited and asked me how they can go to Armenia as tourists. I'm glad that my pictures and stories were so persuasive for a certain category of people. Hope that they will really come to Armenia.
Lena jan, thanks for remembering me during the Georgian-Armenian dancing event. That's very nice of you. I might be coming to Armenia for a week in the end of august-begining of September, so if any of you have plans for travelling in Armenia and Artsakh for that period - let me know. It's not 100% so I don't really want to say in advance, not to spoil everything. I really miss you all - my compatriots (both repatriates and hayastanci) in Armenia. Hope that I will see you soon. Hope that this time, if everything will be ok, I'll finaly see Dadivank!
Lavaguin maghtanqnerov,
Vartan

I want to preface this endorsement by saying that I usually don't like to comment on other posts by cilicia.com loggers. But, I had a chance to visit Arthur Ispirian at his place in Yerevan in February this year for about an hour to listen to the rough cut of his upcoming album out on Narek.com records. I was impressed and thought it sounded fresh. To be honest, it's not my style of music at all, but, there was something very fun and upbeat about the album coupled with Arthur's stellar voice. It won't be everyone's cup of tea, but, if you give it a chance, it'll grow on you. Support Armenian artists...

This week seems to be airport week for everyone. My cousin Sharis left the other day, Perouz leaves today, so many people are coming and going, I'm seriously starting to think about my own departure in 4 weeks. Very sad.

But my God the weather is beautiful today. For so long, the hot sweaty sticky weather wouldn't let up. Even walking under the sun in Yerevan was a torturous experience, my taxi expenses rose so high. But a nice downpour last night cooled the whole city down. I looked at the temperature last night and it said 77 for my bedroom. It hasn't gone below 81 since June. Few, what a relief.

I went to check out an apartment today in fantastic local, fantastic building, fantastic bak with a clean pool, three bedroom, living room, kitchen, two balcony (one closed off) for... I wont say how much to avoid the risk of someone else snatching it from me. I think I may have to make the official purchase, or else I can kiss the real estate market goodbye because prices are doubled these days. Back to the US for Arsineh, but you haven't gotten rid of me yet, Yerevan!

It seems that my previous log didn’t post… funny!
Anyhow, in short my message said… IT’S A GIRL!
Yep, on July 13 we had our second baby girl. We called her Varanta. Many people have been asking if this name has any meaning. Well, it used to be an « ishkhanutyun » (how do you say this in English?) in Karabagh. It covered Today’s Shushi and Askeran area. There’s a beautiful choir in Shushi named Varanta. If you get a chance to be by there during summer time, make sure you look them up. OK, enough of history and geography lessons. Seriously, it feels so great to be a Dad again. All the pleasures of waking up at night, feeding, diaper changes and the beautiful angelic face that makes you forget the rest. She is a peace of work. (Raffi K, how can I post a picture?)
As for other things that are happening in my hum drum life… I will be finishing my graduate diploma in August. I am also working on a plan to move to Armenia with my family in the near future. Hopefully things will go well.

Madlene, I would have loved to be there for your wedding… I know how you party! Congratulations. I’ll look for your CD.

I have been a little missing in action lately. I’m trying to catch up with myself. I have my cousin Sharis in town from LA, the interns, the job, the visitors, the meetings, the birthday parties, the goodbye parties, all the excitement of being in Yerevan through the summer. I’m becoming very sad at the thought that I am officially set on leaving Armenia in a month. I’m not sure how I will adjust back to American life, though in Boston it isn’t so necessary to fully assimilate since I’ll be back among Armenians. I do have an apartment to return to, however, which is something, considering a week ago, I didn’t have a place to live, a job, a driver’s license, a credit card, nothing. Just family and friends, a checking account and a court date for a speeding ticket in April. Oh, wait, I don’t have that either because they scheduled it when I was here and I missed it. I am moving with a very good friend, Mike Dagdigian, at his fabulous flat in the center of downtown Boston for $750/month. While it may take adjusting from my $125/month rate in Yerevan, it’s still extremely cheap for the center of Boston… yeah Mike! Thanks kid!

So the reality of leaving Armenia has sunk in with a few of us as Armen and Kohar are leaving tomorrow morning after a year of being here. Soon after many others will follow. Next, it will be my turn. Though I must admit, there are so many things I do miss… my parents, my car, cell (I’m entitle to appreciate convenience at this point), and good ol’ Armenian community I was trying so hard to take a break from. It will be nice to return refreshed with all new ideas, perspectives and motivation.

Traveling with the interns has been a blast. I haven’t logged in a while, so I must update on the Kharabagh trip. It went MUCH better than I anticipated. We covered it all… sleeping in Datev Vank after the camp fire and feast, Ganzasar with a picnic, soccer game and water fight to follow, a climb from Karin Dag to Shoushi, Martuni, Amaras, and the adventures of getting kicked out of Hotel Kharabagh, as it is now closed down. We met the most random people just walking around Stepanagerd, a few people from Canada, a group from LA, it was quite a trip.

This weekend is Lake Sevan with a HUGE group. I may have to get two 15 passenger vans. Yeesh.

Oh, I finally found my family in Armenia. My grandmother came to visit her cousin, drove to Hoktemberian to search for them because they don’t have a phone. Sharis and I went to visit her and we met a whole part of our family we never knew about. We met our grandmother’s sister who is on her death-bed. She was so excited to see us and immediately understood who we were… Azoi aghcheeguh yev Grigori aghcheeguh… she must be in her mid-90s now.

Too much to catch up on, but hopefully I’ll get it all in before I return to Bean town!

IT'S A GIRL!
Amassia (turned 2 on July 11) has a new baby sister, Varanta.
Varanta was born on July 13 at 7:35 P.M. (Canadian time). She weighs 7.2 lbs. Has black hair and is beautiful... and I am not just saying that because I am the father.
Lara is doing well. We are now home and enjoying our new "toy".
Some of my friends here have asked what Varanta means. It used to be an "ishkhanutyun" in Karabagh. It used to cover today's region of Shushi. For those who have a chance to go to Shushi, make sure you see the Varanta choir. They sing like angels.
We also thought that the name Varanta sounded soft and noble.

A bientot mes amis.

I've had a most interesting couple of days. On Thursday, Winslow Martin stopped by to join a bunch of us for dinner here at my place. Winslow is the talented photographer who did the "Yeraz" shoot for Pomegranate. He's one of the most respected photojournalists in Boston and I really like his style. This time around he dropped off the negatives from the shoot of the new Gor album, "Godfather Tom" coming out later this year. I am producing and releasing "Godfather" on my label. Winslow is always entertaining, talking wildly about his times in Armenia. He's been there four times and he intends to go sometime next year. I am always fascinated by people like him who are not Armenian but have been very active in Armenian projects. Perhaps getting that objective perspective of what others think of Armenia and Armenian is the curiousity I sometimes like to visit.

Today, I spent the day with a French journalist in from Armenia for a couple of weeks. I took here around Harvard Square in Cambridge and we talked at length about Armenian issues. I was ultimately interviewed for an hour of so for her doctoral dissertation focusing on the Armenian Diaspora and Armenia relations. She has no Armenian blood but was fluent in Armenian and currently lives in Armenia. Again, Laurence Ritter was a rare person who lives in Armenia despite having no previous connection to Armenia. She likes it there and intends to live there for a while. I was struck by her understanding of the Armenian Diaspora and what it is we want and are striving for. At the same time, her realistic perspective on contemporary Armenia was also interesting and insightful. She is currently teaching a generation of journalists in Armenia their craft. I wish there were more of her. I am constantly amazed and sincerly curious when I meet non-Armenian Armenophiles. What draws them to Armenia and why?

First off.. sorry I haven't logged in a while. Eventhough I'd have to say that i'm almost always "bored", seems like there's always stuff to do. I know that doesn't quite make sense, but let me explain... So most of my days are spent at home (boring), but towards the evening when the heat has calmed down and the weather allows me to leave the house without feeling uncomfortable I go out with my friends for ice cream or coffee. Then some days when I'm feeling well, I go to the supermarket and do some shopping for the house, but other than that there's really not much else I do these days.

Of course there's the infamous wedding next Saturday that my whole family has been running around for. My family decided to take a family vacation after the wedding... so we'll be going to Las Vegas for 5 days, and then I'll be accompanying my sister back to San Francisco for a couple of days. Hopefully I'll be feeling well enough to do all that. Coming to my health.... I'm feeling A LOT better than before (except for this nasty cold I managed to get in this heat), but starting Monday I'll stop taking my thyroid replacement pill, which will prepare me for my radiation treatment on July 30. So for a month, I'm going to be feeling as YUKKY as one can feel (worst case scenario). So once again, my room will be my dwelling.

I'd like to thank Nigol/Zabelle and Ara for taking SUCH good care of the CSUN group! I was so worried about how they'd be doing, but I know they are goooood hands! It was so much fun planning everything and I hope next year I'll be able to be with the next group who goes. During the past month, while I've been at home and in bed, I've had time to do A LOT of thinking. I feel like I've changed tremendously what I think I want to do in the future. First, I realized that teaching little kids is probably not for me anymore. I don't know if I have the patience to do that day in and day out... Second, I know that I want to continue on to graduate school. Third, I'd like that graduate school to be far away from home, hopefully somewhere where I can experience some sort of winter (in preparation for Armenia). Fourth, I thought about what I like to do and what i'd like to study... I researched about different fields...and I've come to the conclusion that I'd like to study International Relations! See, in choosing, I kinda thought, "...If I want to live in Armenia, I'd like to study something that would be of great use to Armenia when I'm there...teaching Armenian isn't really something I could do there..." so I decided on International Relations. I can't explain how happy I am with my decision and how much I look forward to reaching these new goals I've set for myself. I feel soooooooo improved, healthwise, that right now, I feel like I'm the "queen of the worldddddd!!!" and I could do anything!

Ok, I think I need a nap now.. phewwwwwwwwww... hahahaha, no just kidding!

TSUH!:)~
p.s. - CONGRATULATIONSSSSSSSSS Madlene! yay yay!

Our baby was due yesterday… bun no signs yet!
I’ll keep you all posted (as much as I can). I’ve been hesitating if I should write about the following issue: Fatherhood.
I have decided to take parental leave from September to May. This is quite uncommon for men. In all of my entourage I don’t know one person who has actually taken time off from work to spend it with his family. I am not criticising anyone. I am just making an observation.
It seems to me that fathers get away with too much. In most cases it’s the mother who ends up deciding about the education, basic needs and security of the child (children). I am talking mostly about men in North America (I don’t know the situation in other places). It seems like all that is expected from fathers is to be a good provider. With all that has changed in our society, I think OUR roles have changed as well. If we want to have a balanced family where the roles aren’t divided upon gender, then fathers have to start living up to their share of responsibility. We too can change diapers, feed the baby, play with them and take them out for a haircut or to the doctor. This is only fair when you think that for centuries mothers were bound to do this for 24 hours a day when most men worked about 8 hours and did a couple of chores at home. Lara and I have decided that I will take time off and take care of the 2 kids while she finishes writing her thesis and working in her field. There is another solution here but we opted not to take it. It’s called Day Care. Most of you readers who don’t have children yet may not know what I am talking about. Finding the right one is a parent’s nightmare (at least here in Montreal). Day care in Canada is subsidised by the government. Because of the lack of funding, the safety of the kids seems to me to be compromised. There is a 1/10 ratio for kids between 1-3 years old with a minimum of 2 adults… that’s 20 kids for 2 adults! Have you ever been in a room with 20 kids of that age group? Anyhow, we want to be the ones to raise our own kids, why else do you think we had them in the first place?

I apologies if my thoughts were kind of everywhere.

PS: I have one more month to finish my graduate diploma at university. I am studying the field of Community Economic Development. I’ll leave that for another log.

Montreal: weather is nice and the Jazz fest was excellent!

Smash my head out DAVID!!!

Buenos Aires. Sunday Morning. Preparing an aintabtsi sheesh-kebab…
After the shame of the Argentinean soccer team at the FIFA´s world championship we received the notice of a promise of future: David Nalbandian, The sub-champion of singles at Wimbledon. David, of 20 years old lost the final against the Australian Hewitt, number one at the ATP rank. He was born in Córdoba, a province where a lot of Armenians and diasporans live. His father’s origin is Armenian and Italian his mother’s. When David started his career he claimed economical help to Armenians but they were not there, so David’s feelings about “Armenians” are not very strong.
Now David is one of the twenty best tennis players of the world!!!
Keep on smashing balls baron David!

Note: now all Armenians are gossiping and presuming because they say “I know David family, I know him, I remember him”, all are related with him…but when he needed help…
SHAME ON US ARMENIANS!!!

HovhanneSS

I've been very lame in adding to these posts, but seeing as though some of the talk is about the finals loser at Wimbledon this last weekend I think it really warrants a post from the UK!
I've very much enjoyed reading all the posts over the last few weeks, but have been quite preoccupied with graduation and the such-like that I haven't really had time to log. I've graduated finally, and was actually very sad to leave, particularly as my final year turned out to be one of the best years of study and in general I made some absolutely wonderful friends especially from the lab in which I worked - of whom no-one is english - in fact I was 'the english' which made for brilliant fun!!! I think I may have some recruits for you Raffi - some tourists!!
Currently I'm waiting in the UK until a family wedding and then I jet off to Hayastan for a year (hmmm shame I didn't hear about the VG air deal before I booked my flight - the prices are somewhat amazing! - or more like 'normal' prices). This I am very very much looking forward to. Actually I am looking forward to some lovely warm weather - it's raining here - I suppose the only good thing about this rain is the green countryside, but that's about all....
I hope the bloggers in their respective countries are doing well.

I have arrived! Back in Artsakh where the air seems sweeter and the markets are like going to the playground. The internship group plus a few others left Saturday morning eastbound with a few pit stops. We did the usual Khor Virap, Noravank, Stone hendges, which I saw for the first time... cool. But the coolest was sleeping in Datev Vank. We picked up some food along the way and picniced in the room without the last wall... straight drop down. We started a fire on the cliff, drank, ate, sang, and shared beautiful moments together. Around 4 am when people started to fall asleep, I stayed awake to stand guard. I was cozied up by the fire looking up at the sky where the stars slowly exposed themselves and reflected on the entire night as one of the most amazing experiences I've ever had. I know I say that with each trip, but having brought all these people to this place, this moment had caught up with me.

The next day, we swam in Sadanai gamourj, stopped in Goris to visit Karen's, one of the drivers and my now close friend, family. They invited us into their home, spread out a feast for us, and then gave us the GRAND tour of their massive backyard. By back yard, I mean the river, the other mountain, the land where they grow just about everything from strawberries to toot to mint to just about anything you can think of. It was remarkable.

We finally reached Stepanakert where we settled into Hotel Kharabagh. Apparently we were the last guests in that hotel because someone had just bought it and it is now closed down, because this morning we were told to find shelter elsewhere. So the woman that settled us in called a friend to take us into her home that she rents out. We are staying there now and it is very quaint with a backyard balcony and very comfortable beds. Sam, Perouz and Sebouh left this morning for Yerevan, but we will kef enough for them as well.

Today we drove up to Ganzasar, looked around, had a picnic and Karen began the Vartavar battle, one day late. Next thing you know, everyone is soaked except for the boys. When they carry around expensive equipment, of course they aren't gonna get soaked... what a lame excuse.

Artsakh is a wonderful as it always has been. Moments here never seem to be short of mezmorizing... perhaps the only "lesser" experience is me sitting on a computer, so I better rush off back to Artsakh... tomorrow is Karin Dag, from where we will climb up to Shoushi... a dream come true a second time!

I hosted a little get-together the other night here at my place in Framingham, MA USA. The cast of characters were interesting indeed. Two thirds of the performers from the "Yeraz" CD, Aaron Stayman(Guitar, Banjo) and Jason Demerjian (Percussion) dropped by for some food, drink, and music along with other friends of mine. Jason is the director of the Armenian Volunteer Corp and is in town for a few days from Armenia. Aaron brought along Sara, who along with Aaron was a Peace Corp volunteer in Armenia in the last few years. A friend of my roommate also flew into town. She's from L.A. and moved here from Armenia when she was 17 about 13 years ago. Some odar friends also were present as was my housemate. The evening culminated in some live entertainment as Aaron, Jason and I played music for about an hour. We played some Rouben Haghverdian, Gor, and Aaron Stayman songs and sat back and had some Budweiser. (Hey, it was a 30 pack for $20, what else can I say?) The weather was hot and I easily sweat off a few pounds.

I think I'll do some hiking this weekend...

Raffi, I am happy to say that it is not all that hot in Yerevan yet. The rain has consistently kept us somewhat cool. Thank God! Everyone seems to be complaining about how much it rains for July, but I welcome it.

I just picked up my cousin Sharis and my grandmother at the airport last night. It is difficult enough for a young healthy person to fly from America to Armenia. I do not know how my grandmother made it. I was watching them as they came in and waited to pass through the passport check. I saw people bumping my grandmother, cutting in front of her, and simply watched her walking painfully down steps. One thing I suppose we take forgranted in the US is how much the elderly get taken care of in America. I'm just glad I have an elevator in my building or my grandmother was going to cab it to Hotel Armenia and get put up for the night.

But it is truly a pleasure having them. Sharis is a few computers down checking her e-mail and already trying to figure out how the law degree she'll get in three years will help her to practice in Armenia. So far she says she has the best impression of Armenia and looking forward the 2 weeks she's here, short but sweet. Another one is sucked in!

It's hot as hell here in Boston. But, I bet not quite as hot as in Armenia. Anyway, a few interesting things going on that you all might be interested in. This weekend here in Massachusetts USA, there is the annual Kef Time weekend located in Cape Cod. It's an annual thing that has been going on for about thirty years. The premise is get a bunch of musicians together and have dances for about four nights straight. During the day, the hotel is on the beach so you soak up some sun on the ocean. The musicians range from Ara Dinkjian to John Berberian to Richard Hagopian to Hatchig Kazarian. It's a great time but the even comes with a bit of controversy. The style of music is called "Kef" consisting of an oud, dumbeg, clarinet, and guitar with a bass and tamborine added in at times. It's the music of Western Armenia (Eastern Turkey) brought over just after the Genocide in the 1920's. The music has pretty much stayed the same in terms of compositions, instruments, and language. The controversial aspect comes with the lyrics being sung in Turkish half of the time. Some are melodies composed by Armenians and others are just plain Turkish. I've had my issues over the years in terms of what people should and should not listen to. But in the end, any event which brings together Armenians to have a good time and dance is cool with me. The musicianship is excellent and provides the attendees an opportunity to see real passion and spirit on the dancefloor and on stage.My personal wish is to see these musicians (many of whom I admire as incredible performers) create a more modern and cutting edge form of music using other traditional instruments and lyrics, but that will come in time as this type of music dies off. If you want to get a true flavor of old Armenian American music and dancing with a touch of the controversial Turkish music, Kef Time Cape Cod is the place to be. The Turkish language aspect of the weekend has touched off many instances of protest such as the one a few years back where on attendee pulled the power plug on the band in protest (Martin Haroutoutian).

I finally got to see my product (Pomegranate's release of the"Yeraz" CD) in the Times Square Virgin Megastore as well as Tower and HMV in NYC. It was a thrill to see units of "Yeraz" on ths shelf and selling to the general public. I understand that "Yeraz" is now available at all of these stores nationwide. Along the same lines, I was asked to be a reviewer of world music for a publication called Global Rhythym based in NYC. These magazines are available worldwide at all world music locations. I'll be reviewing Armenian, European, and Finnish music.

The good news with my immediate family is that my father had successful prostate cancer surgery and will be up and ready to go with my mother to Armenia to participate in the Armenian Volunteer Corp sometime in October. They have been looking forward to the trip and one year commitment for some time now. My dad found out he had prostate cancer four days before they were supposed to leave for Hayastan about one month ago. I guess the moral of the story from my end is that life is short and you never know what will ever come up. For those of us thinking about moving or going to Hayastan- why wait. Life is short and you have nothing to lose. I'd hate to wake up one day and say "I was thinking of going to Armenia a long time ago but just was too busy, etc." I give my dad a lot of credit for dusting himself off after sugery and saying, "I'm going anyways".

It looks like I'll be in Hayastan for two week in December/January. I've decided to head over for New Year's with my friend Aaron and hang out and see my friends and family. Nothing like a Armenia in freezing weather...

What a little piece of Heaven here on earth! I travelled up to northern Armenia... the Lori region with my interns this last weekend and I have found one of my new favorite corners of the world. We explored the standard Haghbat and Sanahin, had lunch at a pit stop on the side of the road where they prepare the Khorovadz on the street. What a feast. But the weekend was truly perfected by the trip to Kobayr. It had been rainy all weekend and was drizzling at the time. We had to climb through a little village to get to a barely existing path to hike up a muddy hill. At points we had to grab onto a fence which otherwise we would not have made it without looking like we just arrived from Woodstock on the rainy day. Finally we reached the top and discovered the remarkable frescos Raffi speaks so highly of. Standing feet away from the straight down drop cliff, I took a few shots and then followed others to discover an isolated cave area in the cliff that resembled the rainforests of… I don’t know, I’ve never been to one, but it was quite a view. Just as I got to the end, I shot a photo and it was my last, but thank God I at least got some evidence that I reached this magnificent place. Friends back home already express they’re endless jealousy for the experience I’m having. I’m starting to get jealous of myself!