As the year nears its end, Yerevan, too, seems to be boiling with a certain amount of energy. Decorations everywhere, Baghramian Blvd. lined with beautiful lights, Christmas trees at every turn, and so, one can feel the holidays. Something interesting to note is that the hustle and bustle of the holidays started here about two weeks ago, and it really got going this past week. This gives all of us a chance to actually enjoy the holidays, and not fall victim to retailers and discounters, as we do in most western countries. Yerevan still seems to be icy. It's cold (it has reached -20C at some points this week), and underneath the last blanket of snow is hardened ice, so walking around in the city is not much fun at all.

I put up my tree this week, even though I'm leaving in a couple of hours for a visit to London and then to Los Angeles (but needed to make it feel like the holidays in my home, too). The process of finding decorations was quite interesting. I went down to the Ferdosi market just below Republic Square. This market is essentially a colleciton of booths lined up and covered with blue tarp and one can find essentially anything--clothing items (i mean every kind), kitchenware, electronics, ornaments, food, flowers, detergent--you get the idea! What was interesting is that this small stretch of booths, it felt like, swallowed me on one end and spit me out at the other. Once I entered, I truly lost all control of movement, because of the huge crowds. In an aisle approximately 4 feet wide, perhaps nine people, at any point, were trying to pass each other. What an experience. But even in what seemed to me to be chaos, there was rule and regulation. For instance, The blue tarps covering stands were weighed down my melting snow, and at times the melted snow would gush like a waterfall on some unsuspecting shopper. But the stand owners make sure that they make the visit as pleasant for their visitors as possible, so occassionally one hear "janaparh badzek" (make way), and everyone automatically would slide to the side of the aisle, and another would poke the tarp to release the pool of water creating a sizeable dent into the "shop ceiling."

After Christmas eve dinner at my house this week (which was a great time for eveyrone--it felt like our own little family was together), I also had my coworkers over for new year celebrations, and we had a great time. The holidays here are truly about the time one spends with friends and family, and this has been very enjoyable. Of course, once in a while I will turn on CNN or BBC to get a glimpse of western Christmas traditions, and just about the only thing I see are images of shoppers at Macy's with the voice over painting a bleak picture of the horrible sales season for retailers. It gives me an interesting contrast in values.

A few things this week made me go hmmm! The unfolding of the "war" story in Iraq, and today's amazing announcement that some religious group and their scientific arm have achieved a huge genetic feat--the successful birth of a cloned human being. Scary stuff, if you ask me. Oh, and also, Herb Ritts, the photographer passed away. Random news.

So, as I close out the year and leave for London, I wish all on the site, particularly my fellow loggers, who seem to be spread about on various continents at the moment, a great, healthy and happy new year, full of all that you wish for. Guten Rutsch, as the Germans exclaim (Good slide into the new year)!